7430A Norge Dryer - Instructions

Watched the video on the site and it was spot-on! Super-easy, took like 10 minutes to replace the belt. Thanks!

Took two screws out of the Lint tray on top. remove to bolts from under hood then put new belt on. Always make sure there are no twists in belt when put back on

DISCONNECT THE POWER. Double check the dryer is unplugged. Use a putty knife to free the latches holding the top of the dryer in place. Lift up the top of the dryer and secure it in place (be sure it's safely held open and won't come crashing down onto yourself as you work). Remove the two screws on the inside and near the top of the dryer, which hold the front and side panels. Gently lift up on the front panel (it may help to open the dryer door to get a better grip). Once free from the bottom clips, carefully rotate the front panel so that the door sensor wires are not strained. Once the front panel is out of the way, grab the drum and firmly lift it up and away from the back. (The drum has rollers and ridges at the rear and you'll need to pull the drum out of its "track"). Slide the new belt around the drum and position the drum about halfway inside the dryer. Loop the belt around the motor, but not the tensioner, (it will be easier to install the drum if you wait to tension the belt). With the belt around the motor, gently slide the drum back keeping the belt around the motor pulley. Press and guide the drum back onto the rollers at the rear. Check the belt is positioned correctly around the drum and motor. Reach back from the front and loop the belt around the tensioner. Rotate the drum by hand and make sure the belt is aligned and the drum spins smoothly. Position the front panel and slide it onto the lower clips. Install the screws being very careful not to drop them into the abyss... Close the lid and plug in the power.

Just slid the new filter in.

Watched a video and went to town taking it apart. I stuck a pop can under the barrel to hold it up while I worked on pulleys. My dryer does not have a plastic pulley but a metal tension bar with a hole in the middle. Ran upstairs and watched a different video with my set up and all was good. 5 min of work 5 min watching Youtube and 5 min cleaning all the lint out of the machine. I am actually glad the old belt broke because some of the lint was in a clump and had scorch marks on it. I took the shop vac to every part of the cabinet and shoved it down the lint trap sleeve also.

Removed broken filter, used screwdriver to clear out some old lint in the intake and inserted new filter. New filter fits and works as described.

Buy the part the site provide a video on how to do it and was very helpful thanks

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Needed a belt. Only snag was for me was re-installing front panel (door)

Raise the top and then remove two screws to remove front. Once the front was removed on this Maytag model it was not necessary to remove the dryer drum. I simply lifted the drum slightly and slid the belt around the drum to position the belt. I then pressed the tension arm toward the drum and fed the belt around the drive pulley and tension pulley. I spun the drum a few turns by hand to insure that the belt was aligned properly. Then replaced the front cover and the top. Turned on the dryer to test and job was completed. Thanks to your video and prompt parts delivery the job was a snap. My wife didn't even have time to get mad.

I pulled the old one off and put the new one on. It took about 3 minutes because I also replaced the old lint filter.

It was easy to remove the lint trap first, then the front dryer panel. The drum easily was removed and installing the new belt was a little tricky because the belt had to be mounted onto pulley while holding the drum in place. I had a little help from a friend to help me stabilize the drum as I placed the new belt. Once on, it was easy to re-install parts in reverse and have dryer working again.

Before ordering the part, I found this website by linking from a video on YouTube where several people showed how they did it. Simply two screws in the lint removel chute and pushed in the two clips holding the top and two inside screws holding the front panel. Held the machine tilted back onto a table and placed two 4" wooden cubes underneath it so it wouldn't come forward and one more 4" cube under the drum. After cleaning out the inside, I slipped the new belt around the drum (ribbed side down) and taped it in place with a couple of pieces of painter's tape temporarily. Hooked the idler wheel guide and looped the belt in it. Tested movement by spinning it by hand to check alignment and removed tape. Reassembled the front, side and top panels accordingly and tested it. Voila! This was my first attempt and I saved myself some bucks. The last repair was done by Se•rs and their service person took my credit card number for the invoice and promptly went out and charged over $3,000 on it. He was eventually caught. Great incentive to do yourself, huh?

Remove broken lint filter, stick in new filter. Couldn't be easier.

This Was pretty simple, removed the old broken screen. There are two torque screws on the outside where the bottom of the door is, I removed them so I could move the screen on the inside so I could clean out the excess lint. vacuumed out the lint, tightened the screws back in and slid the new screen in and it was done.