7375A (REV B) Norge Dryer - Instructions

Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.

Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.

I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.

Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.

Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.

Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky

The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.

Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.

The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.

This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)

Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.

Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.

This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.

Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.

It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

My part came a day or so after the order was placed. There was really no installation required, but I will definitly make orders from this site again. Thank you very much!

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

Very simple-remove 3 screws that hold the Control Panel on, remove the two connectors and replace with new part in reverse order. Unfortunately, this did not fix the problem. Will be ordering complete timer assembly.

googled"dryer not heating". landed on partsselect.com. checked parts like website said with multimeter. pointed to thermostat. ordered it, replaced it, it works now.

Finally got tired to greasing the wheels only to have to do it again so I sprung for new wheels and shafts. Popped the top open, removed the drum, installed the two new shafts with supplied screws then attached the wheels. Figured I'd change out the original belt while I was at it even though the old one still looked good. It's nice and quiet again, plus it give me a chance to clean it out.

Had to disassemble most of the dryer including pulling dryer drum in order to get to drum support rollers. Not a real difficult repair, just time consumming because of amount of parts needing to be removed inorder to get to rollers.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

Received the replacement filter which was an exact duplicate of the 22 year old filter. Took the old one out; slid the new one in and got ready for another 22 years of use. At 86 years of age I probably won't be around to see the new filter wear out. The dryer has already outlasted the place where I purchased it - Montgomery Wards! They just don't make stuff to last like this anymore.

I just followed your video how to replace a broken belt , after viewing replacing belt went easy

the video was very well done and able to understand. disconnect power ,remove lint trap,remove 2 phillps head screws, push putty knife in front seam line about 1'' in from corners to release top assembly ,lift up and support, disconnect wire connector ,remove 1 screw in each front corner lift front panel off while holding drum, remove broken belt,install new belt with grooves against drum ,feed around tensioner pulley and onto motor shaft pulley ,spin drum by hand to make sure belt tracking etc. reassembly in reverse.

Easy repair and I am not the handyman type. Unplug the unit. Lift the top. Remove 2 wires from temperature sensor and remove single screw to lift out the plate the sensor is mounted to(Easier to change the sensor out this way). Remove 2 wires from heating element and then remove single screw. Lift out heating element and replace with new one. Screw back in and reattach 2 wires. Remove 2 screws on the plate for the temeperature sensor and replace with the new sensor. Once 2 screws are back in the plate holding the sensor, screw back in with single screw and attach 2 wires. I called a tech and they wanted $125 just to look at the unit. When I read other reviews of how easy this repair was, I thought it was worth a try. Definitely saved us a bunch of money and time.