8433A (REV A) Norge Dryer - Instructions

Unplug dryer

Pick the top up at the front and swing up. Inside each side of the front is a screw to remove. Do not forget to unhook the door switch wires. Pull the drum. Push belt off as you remove the drum. Works better to reach in at the lower right and take the belt off of the tighener first.

After you clean out any lint in area unplug the wires from the motor and snap off the hold down clamp on the back bearing.

The blower needs to be released fromt he shaft. The snap ring in front of the blower needs to be taken off. This can be done with a screw driver by prying off the flat spot on the shaft. However, a snap ring pliers would be better. The front of the blower housing must come off as the blower must come off. There is a snap ring behind the blower that must come off also.

The biggest problem I had was removing the front motor bearing housing from the plastic blower housing. It is easy once you see that the front bearing housing is held in by four tabs in the plastic housing. By rotating the front bearing housing 90 degrees you will be able to pull it out.

From there just reverse your action. The belt went on ok. I found by putinng the belt on the drum and the motor drive pully first I was able to reach in an put the belt over the tighener.

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

I removed the 3 screws from the front knob panel. The panel popped right off, I then removed the knob and unsrewed the two screws for the timer. You should move one wire at a time from the old timer to the new. Unfortunately, when I got finished, I had an extra white wire. That led me to virtual repairman website to get assistance with matching up the wires correctly. The virtual repairman was kind enough to provide me with a copy of the schematics for this timer. Once I received that information, I was able to get the wires lined up correctly and my dryer is like new.

Step 1. UNPLUG DRYER
Step 2. Remove the selector knob(timer). It just slides off by pulling it toward you.
Step 3. Remove the back cover of the Control Panel. Three phillips screws along the top and three 1/4" hex head screws along the back. After removing the fasteners lift up on the panel and it can be removed.
Step 4. Remove the two 1/4 hex head screws that hold the timer to the control panel. (They are on the front of the control panel under the selector knob that was removed in step 2.)
Step 4. Switch over the wires one at a time from the old timer to the new timer. Don't forget to switch over the resistor.
**Note**Also pay attention to original position on the timer, it can be installed 180deg's out(upside down) then the knob will not be indexed poperly with the control panel.
Reverse the steps to reassemble!

I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

Replaced coils on gas valve.

Lifted hood ,and took two screws and tilted the front back and remove the door switch , and took front off ,use little socket set, took cover off fan housing took pliers removed clamp on fan , remove key way on end ,slid fan off and put new one on and reverse the way if came off.

Unplugged, loosened front cover, disconnected two wires from door open indicator, removed front cover with screw driver. Removed air flow cover with screw driver. Used pliers and retaining ring pliers to remove old blower wheel, my husband calls it a "squirrel cage". Installed new blower wheel and reassembled. It was all easy to see and get to. Thanks for having the right part. Sue.

Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.

took 2 screws out and replace new coils

I ordered the top 5 items that may cause this problem based on the troubleshooting guide presented by the technicians I found in youtube. I replaced the coils and that fixed the problem. The coils are the first to go out according to techs, but I have the other parts just in case I may need them later on. My Maytag dryer which is over 19 years old is alive and working again. The coils are accessible from the bottom access panel secured by 2 nut screws, unplug the dryer first, then the coils are secured by a bracket with 2 small philips head screw, I used a stubby philips screw driver to remove the bracket, undo the 2 electrical connectors on the coils one with 2 prongs and the other with 3 prongs. Put the new coils attached the electrical connectors and secured them with the bracket. Checked for any loose wiring ensuring connectors are secured in place, then test run the dryer with the panel off so you can see the if the flame stays on, if you run the dryer without wet clothes the flame may stop after 15 or so minutes. It is better to test run the dryer with wet clothes just like when your drying fresh washed and wringed clothes. It was really easy, good luck!

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!

Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.