8215A REV E Norge Dryer - Instructions

This Was pretty simple, removed the old broken screen. There are two torque screws on the outside where the bottom of the door is, I removed them so I could move the screen on the inside so I could clean out the excess lint. vacuumed out the lint, tightened the screws back in and slid the new screen in and it was done.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

After searching you site for other similar problems, we ordered the part that we thought we needed, it arrived within 3 days, my husband installed the part and the dryer started. The information you have on your site was great, it gives you an idea about what to test before having to call a repairman. There were several people that had the same problem and with their description it was easy to test the fuse. Thanks it saved us alot of money and time. I can't describe how the repair was done, my husband did it, but it was very easy

Pretty much just followed the video - I'd never opened a dryer before, so I'd watch a step, pause and do it, then run the video a few more minutes, and repeat. These dryers are really extremely simple devices: just a heater, then a motor to spin the drum and run the fan (I think the same motor does both). So you loosen a couple of screws, pry the metal case open, and slip on the new belt. Done! I didn't keep track of time, but I'm psyched to have saved myself a $200 repair call! Standard delivery arrived in less than two days, just like they said it would.

Followed the instructions and the repair went like clockwork, took less than an hour. I spent more time brushing and vacuuming old lint from the innards of the machine than I did doing the actual repair. Finished up $0.78 richer, too, from the change I found inside the machine.

Was a little hard getting at the idler pulley being it was behind the blower assembly, but it was the only draw back.

Shut off power and gas, unscrewed lint vent, raised top on angle with rope, unscrewed and moved door switch, unscrewed and took off front, put new belt around drum, then raised front end of drum with 4 narrow pieces of 1" foam insulation which let me view and install the belt connection to the drive motor shaft, adjusted the level of the drum using the rope holding up the top, removed foam pieces, replaced and rescrewed the front to fit the drum front channel, replaced the door switch, replaced the top and screwed it to the lint vent, returned gas and power, and ran confirmation test.

Went to your website for information on how to open the cabinet and clues of what could be wrong. I used a putty knife to open top. i
removed two screws holding the front panel then lifted the panel up off of two clips holding it in place. Removed door switch from panel and set panel aside. I turned the dryer on and noticed that the igniter never turned on but the drum turned CCW. I then unplugged the electric cord from the wall and turned off the gas at the supply valve behind dryer.
I removed 3 connectors (1 from igniter, 2 from gas valve coils). Mark the gas valve flare nut and tube with a marker so you know how much to tighten it on reassembly.
I used two adjustable wrenches to remove gas line from gas valve.
Then removed one screw holding gas valve assembly in place.
Removed gas valve assembly from dryer. I took a nut driver to remove screw holding the igniter to the assembly. I used a meter to check bad igniter and it was open. I checked new igniter and it read 88 ohms.
Caution: never touch the igniter heating surface with your bear hands because you will shorten its life. Clean dryer lint from front panel and cabinet. Now reverse these steps for reassembly.
Thank you for the video on how to open the cabinet and the ideas for what could be the problem. The dryer was 2004/2005 model so about 14 years old.

After reading some tips on the parts select site I isolated the high limit fuse and thermostat as the likely problem. The overheating was caused by a buildup of lint in the exhaust fan area. after clearing the obstruction, and replacing the fuse and switch I tested the dryer which worked perfectly.

Unplugged dryer.
Popped the lid using a butter knife by pushing in the two latches (located about 4 inches in from the side in the seam where the top lid and front panel meet).
Used pliers to remove the electrical leads to the two fuses (two leads each fuse).
Unscrewed the top fuse from the mounting bracket, then removed the heating coil, then unscrewed the lower/bottom fuse from its mounting bracket. Tested each fuse with my trusty (and rarely used) volt/ohm meter -- which verified that I had bad fuses.
Replaced the bottom/lower fuse, re-attached to the mounting bracket, reconnected the electrical leads.
Replaced the heating coil.
Replaced the top fuse in its mounting bracket and reconnected the electrical leads.
Closed the lid. Plugged in the dryer. Works like a charm.
NOTE: I checked more than 50 feet of exhaust duct to make certain there were no clogs (which is what caused the problem). I discovered that my conduit (that tube-like thing that connects the exhaust from the dryer to the exhaust port in the wall or floor) was kinked and created a clog. I trimmed it and now it works and I have improved drying performance.

First, I printed one of these responses which were excellent and very detailed. The screws connecting the lint slot to the top of the dryer was frozen. Taking the front panel off was difficult because I did not read the instructions I printed out very well. After I took the top off I had a hard time finding the 2 screws located inside on the top of the front panel. They are located to the far right and left at the top. To take off the front panel you have to push it up to release the clips on the bottom, then it comes right off. Taking the drum out was easy. What was difficult was putting the belt on. There wasn't any slack and to put it around the pulley and the drum for me was difficult. After that is was a piece of cake. It works great.

i pop the top of the dryer lose and removed the 2 screws that held the front on and installed the new belt and put it back to gethere

well, the hardest part is getting this thing apart - you have to take out the lint trap and remove the two screws from the top. Then I was trying to lift the top off - it's held in place by clips so you have to gently but firmly lift it off from the front end and let it open while still semi attached at the back (like a chest). Detach the electrical wires - they are just clipped in place. Then remove the screws (one on each side) that attach the front panel, and (and this is the hardest part if you don't know how it's attached). You have to SLIGHTLY LIFT the front straight up and then pull it away towards you. I just pulled it off, breaking the little attachers, which I subsequently had to weld back on with a welding compound and leave it overnight to set. the next day was pretty easy though...

The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!

good luck!

Un pluged and Moved it out from the Wall, Raised the top, found broken belt. ordered belt on line, 2 days belt came in. cleaned all dust and dirt out put greese on berrings for rollers bleu out vent hose with Leef Blower. put top down, pushed back. pluged in and turned on IT WORKS!!!

I followed the posted directions from others, and it was a breeze. They were really helpful. I would just add the step of keeping the drum in place with a block of wood underneath before removing the front. Slip the belt around the drum, reattach the front , and then finish positioning and tensioning the belt once the block is out of the way .