YMEDX500BW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

He had to put it flat on one side in order to put the legs on it.

Purchased new heating element and replaced. This was the number one recommendation for the fix for my problem. I do not have any measurement devices to check any of the parts. This was trial and elimination. The old element was badly burnt. Still no heat. The second recomendation was the thermal fuse. I purchased that and replaced. Still no heat. After reading through some of the repair forums on this site I decided to try one more time and replace the thermal cut off kit. A little harder to do because it required cutting and replacing some wire ends. That was the problem. We now have heat and once again I have a happy wife! I left the new element and the fuse in. The dryer heats much faster than it did.
The repair videos on this site were very helpful. Some of the wire changes on the Thermal Cut-off Kit can be very confusing.

Gently remove the door bezel by prying it off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the door catch from the door with the same screwdriver. Be careful not to drop it in the door. I did and had to fish it out with a small hooked pick. Install the new door catch by sliding the top in first then the bottom. Again, careful not to drop it in the door. Then snap the door bezel back in place.

Remove the protective cover on door with screwdriver, pop out the old catch, snap new catch in place, replace protective cover

Replaced door catch on dryer door. Followed video on Whirlpool website and it took less than 10 minutes. The dryer works great.

Once I received the new latch I removed the latch cover with the flat head screw driver and worked out the old latch. I then positioned the new latch and snapped in place. I then replaced the cover and shut the Dryer door. The door latched and the repair was complete.

I pushed one end of the catch on upper side the hole and when locked, I pushed the other end of the catch to the lower side to get locked. To complete, the white cover was inserted on top of the catch and done.

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.

Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.

Noticed the door switch was loose and the light bulb inside dryer didn't stay on. Researched the problem on PartSelect. Followed the directions given: Take 2 screws out of top of lint trap. Pry top off of dryer with putty knife. Unscrew 2 screws in dryer door frame holding in old switch. Uplug and remove old switch. Plug in new switch and put screws back in. Close top of dryer. Reinsert 2 screws in lint trap. My 20 yearn old dryer works!

took out old ,twisted in the new one it was nice to have the right part the first time!! thank-you

I just followed the instructions from this site for the door switch part and had it running in 10 minuets. This site made it very easy.

Remove the lint screen, then remove the two (2) Phillips screws that are at the entrance of the lint screen compartment. Take a putty knife and insert it under the top pannel of the dryer about 1” in from the outside and push the putty knife in as you lift that corner of the pannel. Repeat on the other side. Then raise the lid and prop it up. The door switch is on the right side just behind the door on the inside. Open the door and remove the two screws that hold the switch and remove the switch. Install the new switch like the old one came out and close it up you’re ready to go! It is very easy you can’t hurt anything.