YMEDX500BW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I highly recommend using a multi-meter to test for continuity on the thermistors and the heating element. It will likely save you a lot of time and you can replace the correct part the first time. I found the high limit thermostat to be open. Also note that if you find the same part open, it is most always caused by another part failure or the dryer vent to be clogged up with lint. I also cleaned out the lint chamber which was in pretty bad shape and likely caused my failure. But, the parts were not expensive and were replaced while I was doing the trouble shooting. The video is excellent and if followed all will turn out ok. This is my third different appliance repair, and the parts are always in stock, the standard shipping was 7 days, and everything you need is provided.

1. Didn't understand how to do continuity test for 3-wire door switch. After looking that up, I discovered that wasn't the problem ! I have tested, the thermal fuse, oscillating fuse,start switch, I've tested the timer and the black , blue connections go to zero ( continuity good) the tan , white connections just barely off of infinity. I've ordered a new timer. I'll let you know if that's the problem. If you can more diagnostic videos. AKH

Used the trouble shooting tips provided as a guide and a multimeter to test and find the defective part. Testing indicated no continuity thru the high limit thermostat. I ordered the part and received it in 3 days. Had the repair done a full week before the repairman could even come to the house and saved well over $100 in repair costs and 2 weeks or longer of down time. Great website and service.

Replaced thermal sensors.

I opened the top and front of the dryer. 1st I pulled out the drum and cleaned up the lint and mess from the busted support roller. Next it was a matter of looking at the enclosed drawing and instructions. I could not believe it was that easy.

We had to pop open the top. Unscrew front of dryer from sides. Disconnecting the wires was a bit more difficult than expected. We had to use a tiny screwdriver to slide into the sides of the white wire connector on each side before pulling apart. Front drum falls when front of dryer is removed. It took two of us to reassemble - one to hold the drum while the other put the front on. Our problem turned out to be one wheel. We replaced both wheels and saved the rest of the parts. Hums along just fine.

Purchased new heating element and replaced. This was the number one recommendation for the fix for my problem. I do not have any measurement devices to check any of the parts. This was trial and elimination. The old element was badly burnt. Still no heat. The second recomendation was the thermal fuse. I purchased that and replaced. Still no heat. After reading through some of the repair forums on this site I decided to try one more time and replace the thermal cut off kit. A little harder to do because it required cutting and replacing some wire ends. That was the problem. We now have heat and once again I have a happy wife! I left the new element and the fuse in. The dryer heats much faster than it did.
The repair videos on this site were very helpful. Some of the wire changes on the Thermal Cut-off Kit can be very confusing.

He had to put it flat on one side in order to put the legs on it.

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

I changed the belt, tension pully and rollers. Runs like new now. I also took the opportunity to clean it out real good while I had it apart.

Pulled the dryer out from the wall and laid it on its front on a blanket.Removed the back panel.Disconected the two switches and replaced them with the new ones.Cleaned up dryer replaced back panel and returmed the dryer to its original place and she works just fine.

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.

Easy repair. Bought replacement parts on Amazon and they lasted 1month. Should have purchased from you in the first place. Re replaced with your parts and no issues.

Very simple remove door pull off old seal, apply small amount of adhesive around seal seat. Install seal to door let cure for several hours over night is best

I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.