YMED8000AW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Followed your video for replacing the Tension Pulley, Drum Belt and Drum Rollers. Models were not exact, but instructions were very clear and detailed enough for a "computer geek" to do the repair myself (with some help from my wonderful wife). Live in Ohio, parts came from Kentucky and I had them the next day! The dryer is almost 10 years old. Running great now. Thank You!

Use the adjustable wrench to remove the water line. Remove the dryer vent line. Take off the screws on the main back panel, the screws connecting the top. Place both off the side. Unscrew and remove the parts connecting to the heat line located on the left side. Remove the front unit screw attaching the heat line to the bottom of the dryer. Remove the four screws connecting the top and bottom of the heat line together. The two on the left side is a huge pain, make sure you have small hands to be able to reach on the side of the line. Pull the bottom of the heat line loose. The heating element is inside the line. Replace element and put everything back in the order it was removed.

Lint can build up inside the dryer, and can cause a fire in EXTREME cases. If your model has a back panel that exposes the entire chute, this job is much easier. Unscrew the chute from the machine to remove it. Inspect and clean all the lint out, especially the bottom, next to the fan blower. The other version machine has a panel at the top that is welded on. Remove the two screws at the top corner of the rear bulkhead, where the chute is. Gently pull this inner panel away to free the top of the chute from the rear top panel. Then pull the chute down and out. Follow the reverse to complete the job.

Followed the instructions on your video.

Removed the lower front cover of the dryer. Removed the lint filter and removed the cover from the air duct by removing two 1/4" bolts. Removed the two 1/4" bolts retaining the thermistor. Installed the new thermistor and covers.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I am a retired applaince repairman not recommended for amature to repair this model.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

After removing the back & top of the dryer,I determined the noise was coming the idler pulley.I went online w/ model # & found Partselect.com.I ordered the dryer repair kit (at my door in 3 days) which included all the rollers,idler pulley, belt & hardware.It was an easy job to do even tho instructions were for top control panel model (mine is a whirlpool duet- front control) I did try using silicone lubricant on idler pulley, which worked to quiet dryer for a couple days so my wife could use it while I was waing for parts.Two thumbs up to Partselect.com,I will be purchasing all my appliance repair parts from them..I own all whirlpool stainless steel appliances that have been very reliable,but it's nice to know I have Partselect to fix problems as needed.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

Opened machine up, removed electric control panel, removed door assembly, removed lint collector assembly, removed and replaced 2 sensor bars then reassembled machine. Ended up not being the problem but, I now have new moisture sensing bars.

First i did some research on the internet approx.1yr ago.Just in case any problems like this or any other kind of problems should arise which it did.The whole thing is Easy all you have to have is some basic knoledge of how things work.All of this came "OFF" in (4) sections.After installing everything back it was as "Quiet"as the day we purchased it.Good for another 5yrs.Retired welder & "J.O.A.T.Julian San Antonio,Texas

I highly recommend the videos on this site for repair information. It wasn't exact for the age/model of my dryer but very close. Remove the top panel and then the control panel. Remove the lower front panel and finally the door and main front panel. Unloop the belt from the motor and remove the drum. I found one of the drum rollers was bad, which was causing my problem, but I replace all 4 rollers, the belt, and the idler wheel. Sounds like it did when it was new! Find the video for your model and watch it!!

Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.