YMED8000AG0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

NOTE: Please make sure the dryer is un-plugged any time you are reaching into the access panel with your hands or a tool. There are exposed connections everywhere. After using the diagnostic testing instructions (usually attached to the inside of the front panel) I determined it was a faulty Thermal Fuse. The PartSelect video instructs you to take half the dryer apart to access the Thermal Fuse, but I found it easy enough to just access it with the front panel removed. I used a small 1/4" drive socket to remove the single hex head sheet metal screw holding the Thermal Fuse in place. I then slid the 2 wires off, noting which went to which lug. Installed the new thermal fuse and after starting the screw by hand, tightening with the small socket wrench. It is a bit tricky to reconnect the wires as you are doing it all by feel, but it's a lot easier than taking half the dryer apart. Also, make sure you check the exhaust path for obstructions, that might be why the ThermalFuse blew in the first place.

Followed the Video on how to replace,

Replaced all 4 sensors. Still no display. Ran my thumb across all control buttons several times. Machine showed life. Looking good, but low heat. Replaced the heating coil, and now we have a new, 13 year old machine.

You tube

I remove the back panel then look for thermal fuse.. so easy to replace.. thank you so much ..

Pretty easy repair and I am not very handy. I believe they engineer these machines so you hire someone to do the job. They could place that part in an area where it is easier to get to, like a door on the side or something

I made sure air vent was clear and clean. I removed front panel of dryer unit, located fuse, removed wires, tested fuse with ohm meter, which was defective. Tested new fuse placed back in dryer reattached wires. Cleaned out inside of dryer, replaced front panel. Now works like new.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

Remove top, remove two front panels, remove rear panel to access drive motor release tensioner. Remove drum to access to heating element enclosure. Replace and reinstall after vacuuming all accumulated lent.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
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Replaced Thermal fuse, hardest part was getting behind the drier to disconnect the gas & vent line.

Unplugged dryer from electrical outlet. Removed top panel from dryer to get instructions for location of parts. Removed front panel to get to fuse and thermostat. Had to purchase small socket wrench to access nuts because of small space and angle of difficulty. Removed both parts, and replaced with new parts. Plugged dryer back in. Tested for heat. Working properly.

There were two tricky parts - one, was locating the part to repair on the dryer. One set of instructions said it was on the back of the dryer behind the panel. Once I removed that panel I realized that the thermal fuse was on the front. After I identified where the part was (bottom front), the second tricky part was getting to the screw. You just need a mini-socket set and relatively small hands. A magnetic light that can attach to the dryer while you are working is also useful. This would have been a 30-45 minute job had I known precisely where the part was that needed replacing. Otherwise, this was relatively easy.

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.