MDG4658AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Early in the life of my dryer, the Cylinder Seal came out. For the past two years I put off buying the part. When it came in, I p[opped the top of the dryer, removed the two screws holding on the front panel, and pulled the Cylinder of the back wall of the dryer. I then placed the seal in the right spot, glued it down and reassembled. About Fifteen minutes of work and a cheap part, and now my dryer dries a l;oad of clothes in an hour instead of three.

After removing the front panel, the igniter just just snaps into the bracket.

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

I first unpluged the dryer. Then I
Removed two screws and removed bottom cover, Then removed the door assembly.Here I had to unplug the light and door switches. I then removed the four screws that holds the tub mount in place, Then I removed the eight screws that hold the blower cover in place, then removed the blower. replaced blower and reassembled in reverse. I started the dryer and it worked fine.

took frount off ,then filter, pulled drum out, then blower plate & spun impeller off. went back together easy ,except belt . that gave me a little problem but finally got it thanks

I removed the access panel on the lower front. Then I removed the front door panel (noting where the wires went; 1 for red, 2 for black, 3 for grey). Then I removed the 2 screws holding the top down and lifted it up. Then I reached underneath the drum and took the belt off the tensioner. Then I removed the front drum panel with the lint filter, guides, and front felt seal. Then I took out the drum. Then I replaced the roller and post (with bracket). The old post was worn, so it was a good thing I got the new post (thanks to someone else's reccomendation). Then I put it all back together. It was surprizingly easy. I just wish these parts weren't so dad gum expensive. I paid $20 for one roller and post. I wish I could have also replaced the felt seals ($17 each), the other roller (another $8) and the sliders and felt pads ($20 per side). And a new belt. By then, you might as well buy a new dryer!

I followed the instructions and it went very well. The only confusing part was the drive belt for the tumbler barrel I just had to visualize the threading arrangement to get it right. Much like a car fan belt.

I first watched the video and disassembled the dryer to see if I could determine what part was squeaking. All looked good except the wheel on the Idler lever which was tight. I vacuumed up the years of lint and reassembled the dryer and waited for the parts to arrive. I ordered the idler lever and also the 2 drum support wheels, belt and 2 drum guides since I thought that is was a good idea to go ahead and replace these parts once I had the dryer disassembled again. Good choice on the belt as once I removed the old belt there was a crack on the underside of the belt. I bought snap ring pliers at home depot but the tips were too big to fit the holes on the snap rings on the drum rollers. I bought another snap ring plier set from an automotive store that came wth 5 snap ring attachments - but again all were too large to fit the snap rings on the drum support rollers. I used a nail and small screwdriver to expand and pull off the snap rings but this approach was frustrating and time consuming. Not sure where to get snap ring pliers that are small enough to fit the holes on the snap rings - so hope that you have better luck locating a set thats small enough! I was able to return the pliers that I purchased - so all good. I was surprised at how easy the dryer came apart and how easy it was easy to work on. When disassembling the dryer - we took pictures of the wire connections before we disconnected them, however at one point we tilted the dryer back to clean behind it and the top slipped a little away from the side panel of the dryer and one of the wires that was connect to the wire block that is up by where the power cord connects cam loose - and it took some time to find and figure out a wiring diagram for this connection. Suggest that you take a pictire of this wire connection block once you lift the lid - just in case a slip occurs and a wire may disconnect. When replacing the idler lever -
have a little grease available when you install the new idler lever (between the arm and the bolt area as it constantly moves and the old brease has probably worn away) . After making these repairs I dont think I will ever buy a new dryer as any part , including the heater and motor would be easy to replace and cheaper than a new dryer.

Unplug Dryer. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws fm lower panel,3 51/6in hex screws to vent duct. Remove 2 1/4in hex screws to thermostat. Remove 7 1/4in hex screws to blower cover and 2 5/16in hex screws holding base footings.Use adj. wrench to hold rear nut on motor shaft, use7/8in socket to remove fan frm motor shaft. Remove 3 5/16in hex screws holding fan housing to motor mount. Lift-up on spring tensioned belt pulley to remove belt. Pull motor & mount out [wires are layed toward front allowing removal]. Use 6in flat tip screwdriver to unsnap both front/rear motor clamps.Pinch plastic end clamps and remove motor electrical connector.Motor installation is reverse. For belt removal,remove 2 5/16in hex screws to door panel [unhook 2 wires to upper RT rear to door switch].Remove 4 5/16in hex screws to front bulkhead panel.Allow drum to sag IN PLACE [removal not required to replace belt],note belt location and slide old belt off and new one on
Replace Bulheald and door panel [re-attach door switch wires].Complete install by lifting belt pulley and feeding new belt into place. Hand rotate drum to ensure proper belt allignment and tracking. Replace lower panel. Vacuum interior as necessary. Parts delivered in 3days and fit perfectly.

Idler was the noise source. Drum support rollers were failing also. I almost spent $500.00 on a new dryer, glad I replaced the parts instead. Sounds and works like new. Watch the video,its very helpful. Thanks Parts Select. You should advertise your services on TV or radio. I am glad I found you.

Make sure to unplug the power cord.Pry the front,top of the dryer up with a screw driver. Carefully disconnect 3 wires and remember where they go, top right. Remove 1 top bolt on each side of the front cover, inside.Pull up slightly and towards towards you to remove the front cover. Disconnect the light wires if applicable and remember where they go from the front drum support. Remove 4 bolts on the front drum mount cover; the lint catcher will come off with it. If needed, pull up and towards you on the drum to lower the it off of the guide rollers to allow slack in the belt. Reach under the drum, raise the idler lever, slide belt from under the idler lever pulley, remove the belt from the the motor shaft. Carefully remove the drum. A 7/16 wrench and ratchet can be used to remove the idler lever from the mount. Remove idler lever from the spring. Reverse these steps for installation of the new idler lever. For installing the belt, actually fold the belt and put it under the idler pulley and back onto the motor shaft. The idler lever should sit on top of the belt when on properly. Make sure the belt is lined with the wear area of the dryer drum. Roll the drum manually, counter clockwise several times to help insure belt alignment before reconnecting the wires and re-installing the front cover and top. A belt replacement will not require removal of the drum.

I pretty much followed a lot of the earlier postings on partselect.com that provided encouragement to pursue replacing this part on my 17 year old dryer (sorry, money is tight these days and I prefer repair to $800 replacement).

I'd like to add that I borrowed a pair of snap-ring pliers from work which made removal and later securing of roller onto shaft much easier and probably avoided a lot of knuckle bruising and cursing.

I erred though in a couple of places during the replacement. Disassembly took about 20 minutes. However, when I re-assembled I had mistakenly already put the roller onto the shaft before trying to put the drum back in. That isn't possible so I had to remove (an initial groan but only a few extra minutes in the end) the roller from the shaft, then reposition the drum and then the roller back on the shaft.

I also decided to replace the belt while I was in there and I should have taken a picture or made a drawing of the belt route before I took it off since I was later left pondering how the heck to snake the belt onto the shaft and also the tensioner. A quick trip to the internet though showed me a similar route and reminded me how to route it.

I'd also like to add to be cognizant of the wires on the door and front panel when disassembling.

Anyone with any sense of mechanical ability and a little common sense ought to be able to do this repiar.

Thanks Part Select!

Super easy. 2 screws allows you to remove the access panel. One screw on the igniter bracket removes the igniter. Pull off the 2 wire connectors and plug into the new one. Test the dryer and close the access panel.

The repair looked simple enough until it came time to take the out wheel off. Because you can not hold the motor shaft(and the wheel screws on) it was necessary to remove the whole motor assembly and then grind the out shaft down, then use a small screwdriver to take the remaining shaft off.
I must say it was nice to recieve the part in as fast as I did we live in a very rural area and things like that are very hard to find

Removed front panels and swiveled lid upwards. Loosened tensioner, removing belt and then carefully extracting the drum. Replaced 2 drum glides on underside of front panel. Next 2 rollers, which appear to unscrew, but do not do so. You must remove the retaining ring (surprise! ...and 2 screw drivers later). This was the longest and most frustrating part of the whole ordeal. Then just reverse the process for reassembly. This was my first electric dryer repair and it really wasn't too bad. Online docs I found were somewhat helpful, but really luck and perseverance. I did save probably $300 in replacement costs, which is quite satisfying. .