LNC7731A71 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I noticed my dryer was heating, but not tumbling. I"m a 53 year old single female, and my dryer I bought used 3 years ago. I had no clue what the problem was. I texted my brother and said, "it heats but doesn't tumble - is it shot?" He texted back "probably the drive belt - pop the top and see." So I popped the top, and sure enough, the belt was broken. So I googled "diy + dryer + drive belt" and watched a You Tube video. I then drove all over town looking for a belt, and the only place that carried it had closed at noon (saturday). So I googled " appliance parts + dryer and came to this site, ordered the part and it was delivered in two days.
I borrowed a nut driver from my brother, removed the front of the dryer, used a plastic cup to prop up the drum. I put the belt on the drum, being sure to place the ribbed side down, looped through the pulley and onto the motor, removed the cup, put the front back on, dropped the top, replaced the lint trap and the two screws holding that in place, turned the dryer on and voila! All done.

Real easy I have resurrected my dryer may times so this was easy to replace the belt and idler pulley

removed front cover, lifted drum up with a clamp and replaced slides. Replaced front cover

Hinged open the top of the dryer. While dryer was running I tapped on the thermostat. The heater came back on. This verified the problem. Unplugged the thermostat, unscrewed it and replaced it.

I removed the 3 screws from the front knob panel. The panel popped right off, I then removed the knob and unsrewed the two screws for the timer. You should move one wire at a time from the old timer to the new. Unfortunately, when I got finished, I had an extra white wire. That led me to virtual repairman website to get assistance with matching up the wires correctly. The virtual repairman was kind enough to provide me with a copy of the schematics for this timer. Once I received that information, I was able to get the wires lined up correctly and my dryer is like new.

I opened the top then i did change the heater element kit only one screw out and finaly replace the temperature switch, again one screw out was realy ease was my first time,the professional online help my, every one can do it thanks i appreciate your help.H.E.K.P/N AH2162280 - temp/switch p/n 31001449.

Step 1. UNPLUG DRYER
Step 2. Remove the selector knob(timer). It just slides off by pulling it toward you.
Step 3. Remove the back cover of the Control Panel. Three phillips screws along the top and three 1/4" hex head screws along the back. After removing the fasteners lift up on the panel and it can be removed.
Step 4. Remove the two 1/4 hex head screws that hold the timer to the control panel. (They are on the front of the control panel under the selector knob that was removed in step 2.)
Step 4. Switch over the wires one at a time from the old timer to the new timer. Don't forget to switch over the resistor.
**Note**Also pay attention to original position on the timer, it can be installed 180deg's out(upside down) then the knob will not be indexed poperly with the control panel.
Reverse the steps to reassemble!

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

First I disconnected power to dryer. Next step was to lift top of cabinet and support upright. Then I removed door switch and 2 screws that hold front panel on and set front panel aside. Next was to reach under drum by belt tightener and remove drum drive belt from tightener and pulley of drive motor. Then slowly remove drum from cabinet . Once removed, I could remove old glides that were worn out and install the new ones. Before putting everything back together, I gave the cabinet a thorough vacuuming to remove all lint built up inside, checked electrical connections on heating unit and oiled back drum support rollers and belt idler roller. Next just reassembled everything in reverse order as was disassembled. Plugged cord back in and tested unit to make sure everything sounded good before drying any clothes.

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

removed screws on back plare and replaced heater element. Thank you very much foe your quick delivery of the part I ordered. I was reall;y schocked to see how fast the part arrived. I will recommend your site to anyone who needs parts like I did,.
Thany you Very Much,
Alan Brooks

No Repair, just replacement. Went perfect.

Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

I (1)unplugged the unit from the power source. (2)popped the top loose at the front corners with a screwdriver. (3)removed the single 1/4 inch hexhead screw holding the thermal limiter mount from the top of the heating element box with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. (4)removed the two wires connected to the limiter. (5)removed the two 1/4 inch hexhead screws that mount the limiter to the holder. (6)replaced the old limiter with the new one. (7)replaced the two limiter holding screws. (8)replaced the wires on the same terminals as they were removed from. (9)removed the screw holding the heating element in the box. (10)removed the element from the box by moving it to the rear slightly, lifting it up on the side the mounting screw is on and withdrawing the holding tab on the other side from the hole it passes through. (11)removed the thermal fuse holder by pulling upward on the thermal fuse mount until the thermal fuse and mount released and lifted them out of the side of the element box together. (12)removed the wires from the thermal fuse. [[>note< wires are threaded through thermal fuse mount]] (13)reconnected wires to themal fuse. (14)there are no bolts holding the fuse to it's mount, so I used a piece of masking tape to hold the fuse in place temporarily while aligning it with the mounting holes in the side of the element box, and snapped the mount, and the fuse into place with a downward motion while holding pressure on the mount in the direction of the box then removed the tape. (15)replaced the heating element into the box by threading the mounting tab into the hole it passes through while holding the element slightly to the rear of the box and lowering into place. (16)replaced the screw that holds the heating element in the box with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (17)located the thermal limiter and its mount on the tab over the top of the heating element box, and replaced the mounting screw with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (18)made sure all wires were secured in the clearance clips provided lowered the top and snapped it into place with equal downward pressure on the front of the top. (19)plugged in the power cord. (20)Tested machine (FIN)