MGDX6STBW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.

Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

I pushed one end of the catch on upper side the hole and when locked, I pushed the other end of the catch to the lower side to get locked. To complete, the white cover was inserted on top of the catch and done.

Once I received the new latch I removed the latch cover with the flat head screw driver and worked out the old latch. I then positioned the new latch and snapped in place. I then replaced the cover and shut the Dryer door. The door latched and the repair was complete.

Gently remove the door bezel by prying it off with a small screwdriver. Then remove the door catch from the door with the same screwdriver. Be careful not to drop it in the door. I did and had to fish it out with a small hooked pick. Install the new door catch by sliding the top in first then the bottom. Again, careful not to drop it in the door. Then snap the door bezel back in place.

Remove the lint screen, then remove the two (2) Phillips screws that are at the entrance of the lint screen compartment. Take a putty knife and insert it under the top pannel of the dryer about 1” in from the outside and push the putty knife in as you lift that corner of the pannel. Repeat on the other side. Then raise the lid and prop it up. The door switch is on the right side just behind the door on the inside. Open the door and remove the two screws that hold the switch and remove the switch. Install the new switch like the old one came out and close it up you’re ready to go! It is very easy you can’t hurt anything.

took out old ,twisted in the new one it was nice to have the right part the first time!! thank-you

Remove the protective cover on door with screwdriver, pop out the old catch, snap new catch in place, replace protective cover

Replaced door catch on dryer door. Followed video on Whirlpool website and it took less than 10 minutes. The dryer works great.

I just followed the instructions from this site for the door switch part and had it running in 10 minuets. This site made it very easy.

Easy repair. Bought replacement parts on Amazon and they lasted 1month. Should have purchased from you in the first place. Re replaced with your parts and no issues.

We had to pop open the top. Unscrew front of dryer from sides. Disconnecting the wires was a bit more difficult than expected. We had to use a tiny screwdriver to slide into the sides of the white wire connector on each side before pulling apart. Front drum falls when front of dryer is removed. It took two of us to reassemble - one to hold the drum while the other put the front on. Our problem turned out to be one wheel. We replaced both wheels and saved the rest of the parts. Hums along just fine.

1. Didn't understand how to do continuity test for 3-wire door switch. After looking that up, I discovered that wasn't the problem ! I have tested, the thermal fuse, oscillating fuse,start switch, I've tested the timer and the black , blue connections go to zero ( continuity good) the tan , white connections just barely off of infinity. I've ordered a new timer. I'll let you know if that's the problem. If you can more diagnostic videos. AKH

I opened the top and front of the dryer. 1st I pulled out the drum and cleaned up the lint and mess from the busted support roller. Next it was a matter of looking at the enclosed drawing and instructions. I could not believe it was that easy.