MGDX655DW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Be very careful of burrs on the edges of the steel inside the dryer. I cut myself badly when reaching into unplug the switch.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.

Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.

Easy, just snapped it

Unplug dryer. Remove the front bottom panel of dryer 2 screws, then unplug wire connector to the old igniter then unscrew one screw holding ignitor then wiggle out. Open new igniter wiggle back in place insert screw tighten, (getting this screw back in is a little hard) replug wire connector to new igniter replace front panel with two screws. Plug in dryer and there you go drying clothes again. Wife all happy again.

Cleaned out years of fuzz behind lower access panel and noticed where the igniter sits there is a metal tube about 1 inch in diameter. It had rust on the end and was starting to flake away. Found some helpful hints about how to test the igniter. Very easy, just used an ohmeter. Unplugged the 2 pin wire connector and checked for continuity. 1 lead on 1 pin and the other on the other pin., igniter side not the harness side from the dryer. A good igniter should read less than 5 ohms. I don't know the spec. exacttly, but it should not read open or infinite resistance. My meter read an open circuit. Removed the tube and igniter assembly, mine only 2 small bolts. I found the igniter element cracked. Ordered and installed igniter and tube assembly. This was a very easy install. 20 year old dryer works great and it's better than spending $500.00+ on a new one.

I ordered the new handle and installed it in just a few minutes. Very simple--no tools required!

Removed 5 screws holding the back plate in place and removed the 5 different connections to the timer. I had a fair amount of difficulty "releasing" the old timer from its two clips that held the timer in place. I really needed a special pair of pliers that I could grip the pressure clips. Sad to say that in the process of releasing the bottom clip I broke of the clip. It turned out that I didn't need the lower clip to securely hold the new timer in place. There was substantial pressure against the timer given by the cable connections that the timer held in place. Replaced the back plate.

When the part arrived I opened it and just snapped it on.

i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on

Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the Thermal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!

Removed two screws from lint trap and pried front of top up gently. Top hinges backwards which is convienent. Two more screws take the front off. Removed drum and old parts. Removed rollers etc. Per the instructions. Cleaned inside of unit with a shop vac.

Reassemble unit and test. Nice and quiet again and working well. Great service fro. Partselect.com.

Used the maintenance kit....followed the movie tutorial. I also used an empty gallon plastic container to support the front of the drum while stretching the belt over the motor pulley. For the rear drum rollers, before sliding them on the shaft, I put a light grease film on the shaft. After the repair, the dryer runs quieter.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair