MGDX600XW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

First I removed the front panel which allowed access to the burner assembly. Then I removed the gas connector and elbow from the back of the dryer. Then I removed 2 screws that hold burner assembly in place and 2 screws that hold an angle brace for the burner assembly. Had to loosen the screw that clamps around the gas pipe holding it in place clear in the back inside dryer housing. Unplugged all wiring connectors, then I removed the burner assembly and removed the 2 screws holding the burner tube to the valve. Remove the orifice and replaced with the proper size for LP gas. Then removed the blocking pin and replaced with one for LP gas. Then reassembled in reverse order. Actually pretty easy.

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

the ignitor did not glow red checked thermal fuse by exhaust duct. fuse open replaced thermal fuse

Removed old filter and put in new one.

somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme

Followed your online video for disassembly and it was not only educational but actually quite simple. I would recommend that you start the video with," make sure the power cord is disconnected from the power source". I have worked on numerous pieces of large electrical equipment and would strongly suggest this be added. Some people think if it's, "off", it's safe. Your phone staff when ordering was great. We will do business again.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices

Replaced

Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE

I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

Problem: Drum light not working, bulb ok. Removed 6 screws on panel behind timer, light, buzzer, switches. Lifted back of dryer top then moved dryer top forward and off of dryer. The switch was located above the door. Unhooked wiring plug and took out 2 screws holding in the switch. Installed new switch and repaced bulb. Reassembled as needed and tested light by opening door. Works great.

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.