MGDX500BW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Removed two screws from lint trap and pried front of top up gently. Top hinges backwards which is convienent. Two more screws take the front off. Removed drum and old parts. Removed rollers etc. Per the instructions. Cleaned inside of unit with a shop vac.

Reassemble unit and test. Nice and quiet again and working well. Great service fro. Partselect.com.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Used the maintenance kit....followed the movie tutorial. I also used an empty gallon plastic container to support the front of the drum while stretching the belt over the motor pulley. For the rear drum rollers, before sliding them on the shaft, I put a light grease film on the shaft. After the repair, the dryer runs quieter.

Removed 5 screws holding the back plate in place and removed the 5 different connections to the timer. I had a fair amount of difficulty "releasing" the old timer from its two clips that held the timer in place. I really needed a special pair of pliers that I could grip the pressure clips. Sad to say that in the process of releasing the bottom clip I broke of the clip. It turned out that I didn't need the lower clip to securely hold the new timer in place. There was substantial pressure against the timer given by the cable connections that the timer held in place. Replaced the back plate.

The design of the dryer did not make the conversion easy, I had to disassemble the entire front end, top and remove the drum. The kit included a new spud that's it (22.00?). Anyway the gas valve is convertible from NAT to LP only requires turning a portion of the valve about 25 degrees. I managed with a screwdriver as I could not locate my snap ring pliers(just moved). The directions were spot on, read them through once before you start.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

After replacing many, many parts the dryer still does not work! Replaced Thermo Fuse, Thermostate, Cycling Thermostat, Coils, Ingition Sensor and Ignitor. Ran meters across all incoming power, timer control, ignitor power, etc. all check out according to schematic. Incoming gas supply is functioning. So, 6 parts recommended later still same problem. On the good side, all parts were shipped out very quickly. Highly impressed with service.

I Picked up the two front corners up, after removing the 2 screws from the vent and the 2 screws that hold the door switch in place, then I disconnected the old switch and put in the new one. Just the opposite of how I took it apart. Very simple and it works great!! Thanks

As seen in video, All Good !

Took the old parts out and installed the new parts in , everything that you sent fit perfect!!!!!

Kill power to dryer from breaker box.Remove lint filter & 2 screws. Take a flat head screw driver and place in gap between rash from corner of top panel & front panel of dryer and pry up to raise top panel of dryer & rest against wall the wall on angle do it doesn’t fall back toward you. Unplug wiring harness from dryer switch inside top front corner of dryer with outside of drum exposed when top panel of dryer is raised. Open dryer door and remove screws on each side of dryer switch located at upper inside corner of door opening. Take flat head screwdriver had slide in between connector & wiring harness on dryer. Remove old switch. Reconnect new dryer switch to wiring harness & remount switch to inside of dryer door opening. Lower top panel of dryer & press front corners of top panel to front panel of dryer & clips will be locked in place. Replace screws in dryer filter mounting holes yo top panel & replace dryer filter in place. Turn on power ‘ & check if light is working 1st. Then, turn timer knob clockwise, close door and listen if the drum is turning. Open door to see if drum turns. If both work, the job is complete.