MGDE400XR0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

By watching the video it made the job much easier than I thought it would be. I was very pleased with the speedy delivery of the Dryer kit I had ordered. I had called a local repair facility and they wanted twice as much for the same parts.

i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!

Took off back of dryer Undid belt from belt adjuster pulled and took off adjuster put new one on redid belt and put back on dryer. Done

I followed the test guidance on the tech sheet (located behind the front lower cover). According to it, F23 was a short in the outlet thermistor. The thermistor tested good along with all the other replaceable temp related devices.
I then started a general diagnostic following the steps in the tech guide. The dryer failed a motor control step which indicated a bad control board. Replacing the board (after it arrived) took less than 5 minutes and was 100% plug and play.
The most difficult part was ensuring that the test leads for the multimeter were on the correct test points. If you are not confident in using a multimeter, I would not recommend you perform this level of repair.

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

removed front of dryer located igniter removed two screws disconnected wires then put new one in also replace thermal fuse and thermostat on back of dryer works great.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

After determining that the dryer motor was the issue, I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com website.

I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.

The correct part showed up in a timely manner and the pricing was very fair.

I disassembled the dryer, removed the old motor and reinstalled the new motor within about 30 minutes.

Key point was to read the instructions first and then reconnect the wiring to the new motor. The new motor has the switch install in a different spot on the motor so be careful to follow the instructions but, the instructions were very clear and connections were very simple.

I also did some preventive maintenance while I was in the unit by cleaning out any remaining lint from the heater unit and surrounding areas, that took about 30 minutes. Reassembling was a snap and I turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS! Total time of repair and cleaning was about an hour.

I had a load of laundry ready to go and put the new motor right to work. It has been non-stop drying and thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It has been a positive experience and I will tell others about the website if they have similar problems. Thanks again for a success story and dry clothing.