MGDC215EW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

lined up the holes and pushed. 2 second repair.

The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

First, let me say the t videos are excellent. Check them out if you haven't already.

I came across the video on diagnosing the causes of odd dryer noises. After watching that, I decided that the issue was probably a drum roller.

I took a chance and ordered the maintenance kit to avoid having to take the dryer part to confirm the diagnosis and then put it back together again while waiting for the parts to arrive (BTW - the parts arrived within two days of my ordering them) .

Even if you know your issue is only the roller, I recommend getting the entire kit. It takes no extra time to replace the drive belt and the idler pulley while you have to dryer apart and I consider it good preventative maintenance.

Definitely watch the how-to video PartSelect provides on how to perform the repair using the maintenance kit. It's very clear and very helpful. I'm not sure I could have figured out how the belt fit through the idler pulley without it.

As video shows, the repair is pretty straightforward. As others have noted, you'll likely find a couple of dollars in change and a goodly layer of lint in the bottom of the cabinet. Have your shop back handy.

It seems kind of silly, but I found the hardest part of the whole repair was getting the front panel to slide onto the two bottom clips that support it.

One thing to watch out for are two small metal clips surrounding the screw holes at the top of the front panel. The nut screws that hold the panel in place screw into these, not the panel itself. After I struggled to get the panel in place I realized that in the process I had knocked the clips off and so had to remove the front panel again in order to retrieve the clips from the bottom of the cabinet. Minor frustration. And with all the practice I had the first time around, the panel went on much more easily the second time :-)

It was very gratifying to plug the dryer in, turn it on and have it run perfectly. Better yet, it impressed my wife.

Purchased the dryer maintenqance repair kit. Very simple to do. Easy to follow instructions. Took less than an hour. Everything I needed was in th kit. Did not have to run to home depot for anything.

Was not sure what was wrong but the Part Select site allowed us to view other repair issues and solutions. We ordered the kit, it arrived the next day (how is that possible) and easily put the parts in and chaching...money saved and dryer works better than ever. THANKS PartSelect, we give you an eleven and we will recommend you to everyone.

For the Ignitor - As involved as taking the dryer completely apart sounded, it was super easy. 1-take out the lint trap and remove the two screws there. 2-Pop open the top with a screw driver and swing the top completely over/back. 3- remove the two screws holding in the front panel and remove the panel. 4- loosen the belt by pushing on the tension roller under the drum on the right and remove the drum (its super light) use the belt as a handle. 5- remove the screw holding in the ignitor and replace it with the new one. Be careful to not touch the new ignitor. Then go backwards putting it back together.

Unplug dryer. Remove the front bottom panel of dryer 2 screws, then unplug wire connector to the old igniter then unscrew one screw holding ignitor then wiggle out. Open new igniter wiggle back in place insert screw tighten, (getting this screw back in is a little hard) replug wire connector to new igniter replace front panel with two screws. Plug in dryer and there you go drying clothes again. Wife all happy again.

I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting

First i removed the rear panel on the dryer.the removed bothe thermostats that were on the blower housings.unpluged all wiers and installed new thermostats.reinstalled the wiers in there proper locations...note to log the location of the wires when removing from old switch.reinstalled the rear panel and hooked dryer back up and test.

Be very careful of burrs on the edges of the steel inside the dryer. I cut myself badly when reaching into unplug the switch.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.

Easy, just snapped it

Cleaned out years of fuzz behind lower access panel and noticed where the igniter sits there is a metal tube about 1 inch in diameter. It had rust on the end and was starting to flake away. Found some helpful hints about how to test the igniter. Very easy, just used an ohmeter. Unplugged the 2 pin wire connector and checked for continuity. 1 lead on 1 pin and the other on the other pin., igniter side not the harness side from the dryer. A good igniter should read less than 5 ohms. I don't know the spec. exacttly, but it should not read open or infinite resistance. My meter read an open circuit. Removed the tube and igniter assembly, mine only 2 small bolts. I found the igniter element cracked. Ordered and installed igniter and tube assembly. This was a very easy install. 20 year old dryer works great and it's better than spending $500.00+ on a new one.

I ordered the new handle and installed it in just a few minutes. Very simple--no tools required!

When the part arrived I opened it and just snapped it on.