MGDC200XW4 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I've nothing to add to the techniques already described in the other narratives except that the dryer operated normally at first, but then after around 10 minutes the flame no longer cycled. I suspected a bad high limit thermostat since the valves seemed to be working. I ordered the replacement coils only because they were listed as the most common thing to fail. After replacing the T-Stat there was no change; I started checking things w/ a multimeter and found that all the T-Stats were closed. I should have done that at first. Anyway, since I had the new coils I decided to put them in. The dryer has workd perfectly ever since. Lesson to be learned: the coils may check ok when cold, but become inoperable after heating up a bit.

I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.

i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on

First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Used the maintenance kit....followed the movie tutorial. I also used an empty gallon plastic container to support the front of the drum while stretching the belt over the motor pulley. For the rear drum rollers, before sliding them on the shaft, I put a light grease film on the shaft. After the repair, the dryer runs quieter.

Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the Thermal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!

I replaced the thermos fuse, thermostat, igniter kit, and the M series
new style coil kit. The problem was the M series coil kit. I replaced
the other parts because this dryer is over 10 years old. I also brought
the radiant flame sensor. I spent $126.19 in parts plus shipping. If I just
just replaced the coil kit it would have 18.61 plus shipping. A new gas dryer like I have would cost about $459.00. I hope to get many more years out of this dryer. The hardest part of this repair for me was getting the front panel back on. I saved the parts that were good for futher repairs. I replaced the drum belt several years ago, still looks in good shape. I think this is a great DIY site. Just follow their instrutions. Somtimes I'll take a picture of the part before I remove it, just to be sure I replace it right.

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

Changed out the lint filter

1) removed the old broken filter
2) deposited it in nearby wastebasket (with lint attached)
3) used scissors (see above) to remove plastic cover from new lint filter
4) inserted new lint filter
5) marveled at my handiwork!