MEDC500VW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

thought the heating element was bad, once inside the element
looked good, tested continuity , tested good.
further test revealed I only had 110 volts at the wall outlet,traced problem to fuse blown in disconnect box under
the house.
Did not need the heating element.luckily parts select is taking the new element back since I did not use it.
Hope this review helps.

I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting

Pulled the dryer away from the wall took back cover off the dryer. Used volt/ohm meter to identify the bad element. Ordered the element it came in two days. 2 screws and 2 wires to plug in and we were back to drying cloths

Un plug or remove power before you start. First you would have to remove the rear panel of the dryer. All you need is a quarter inch nut driver. Then look at the bottom right side of the dryer. There you will see the heating duct. At the very bottom is where the element is. There are two screws on both sides( they will all be removed with a quarter inch nutdriver ). After you have removed the four screws holding the element on you will have to remove two wires from the elemet be sure that you mark them and dont mix them up. You will also have to remove the round temperature sensor because you will have to reinstall it on the new element. Then you get new element and reverse the order of my directions. Good luck and be safe ALL WAYS REMOVE POWER BEFORE WORKING ON ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES.

Be very careful of burrs on the edges of the steel inside the dryer. I cut myself badly when reaching into unplug the switch.
Procedure: Lifted the dryer top by pulling forward and rotating front up. Removed 2 philips screws holding the switch at the door. Reached into dryer and unplugged bad switch. Inserting small blade screw driver at the edge helped release the plugs detent. Installed new switch using reverse of above.

Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.

1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes

It's amazing... I fixed my dryer!! I am a 47 year old woman with no technical training, and I did it!

I live in a apartment and I bought the Whirlpool Dryer (Model #LER7646JQ0) USED for $150 about 6 months ago. The dryer started blowing cold air, so I called the place that I bought it from and they quoted me a price of at least $300 to fix the dryer.

After searching through google, I found the partselect.com website, and read the repair stories. I decided to take a chance. I ordered just 2 of the suggest 4 parts that could fix the issue, and the dryer did not work. The next day I order the other 2 parts, and that did it - my dryer was fixed.

The diagrams on the site were a little confusing to me (the dryers looks a little simpler inside) but it was easy to repair. I used a screw driver and plier to do the repair, however it would have been much easier if I had a socket set. I would suggest buying all parts suggested, and return the items you don't need. Here are the parts I used:

1. THRMST-FIX (Thermostat, High Limit 221 F
2. USE WPL 279838 (Heating Element (10" long x 6" wide)
3. Thermal Cut-Off Kit
4. Cycling Thermostat (Limit: 155-25) (Thermostat, Internal-Bias)

Good Luck!

The first thing I did was call my friend Donnie who manages some apartment buildings and who is always complaining about fixing things and getting the right parts to fix things. He told me what to order from PartsSelect and when the parts got here I called him up and he did the repair work.

He was reluctant to do the work at first but after he found out I had ordered the parts from PartsSelect he was happy to do the work. "Their parts are always right and they always work," was what he said after he had my dryer working just like new. So if you know nothing about fixing things and buying parts just call PartsSelect and you will be fine. Just ask my friend Donnie!!!

I removed the hex head screws from the back of the dryer and removed the back panel, after unplugging the dryer. I tested the various electrical components until I found that the upper limit temp fuse had gone out. Came to partselect.com and found the kit I needed and ordered it. When it came in, I replaced the upper temp limit fuse, and the other parts that came with the kit. I also, since the back was open, used the opportunity to vacuum out the blower fan and as much of the lint as I could get to. Dryer works great now!

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Still wouldn't work! Push switch returned to you but have not received a refund yet. The repair was very easy. Tracking # 1Z 2R5 3A2 03 0025 9453 for returned switch.

















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First only replaced the high temp cut off switch which allowed the element to heat. However, after one heat cycle the switch would not reset. Then changed the thermostat (included in the kit). After tapping the cut off switch lightly to manually reset it, the dryer ran perfectly. Moral of the story: always change all parts included with a repair kit!

Your video of the door switch replacement makes this job easy! My recommendation watch the video and you will have the switch replaced in a short time! My dryer was older than the dryer in the video but the principal of repair is the same! My new switch replacement fixed my dryer so when the door is opened the dryer shuts off!

Good