MEDX655DW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

Perfect!

Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.

first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!

I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.

Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.

Removed top cover. Removed front cover. Removed Drum. Located the broken belt. Found that there was no tensioner in the unit. Replaced drum rollers. Put in new tensioner. Repaced Drum with belt around it. Installed belt through tensioner and onto drive pully of motor. Supported Drum with wood block. Turned on dryer to insure drum turned without any problems. Removed wood block. Replaced front cover and top cover. Repair compete.

I actually bought $254 worth of parts almost to point of rebuilding , which included both roller axles, drum belt, idler pulley, both rollers, the cloth that wraps around the drum for edging, and light bulb. 15 years before this the heater element and thermostat and the belt. This dryer is 27 years old and still being used on a daily basis. The mechanical parts and no LED components can last a life time. The wife always wants new, but this dryer with alittle love and patience is a workhorse. I'm thankful for websites like this. The videos are helpful! Thank you Parts Select! Sincerely, MIke Orkin

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

Just like your video said. Very easy. I will purchase from you again. Thank you!!!!

Noticed the door switch was loose and the light bulb inside dryer didn't stay on. Researched the problem on PartSelect. Followed the directions given: Take 2 screws out of top of lint trap. Pry top off of dryer with putty knife. Unscrew 2 screws in dryer door frame holding in old switch. Uplug and remove old switch. Plug in new switch and put screws back in. Close top of dryer. Reinsert 2 screws in lint trap. My 20 yearn old dryer works!

I just followed the instructions from this site for the door switch part and had it running in 10 minuets. This site made it very easy.