MEDX655DW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I Picked up the two front corners up, after removing the 2 screws from the vent and the 2 screws that hold the door switch in place, then I disconnected the old switch and put in the new one. Just the opposite of how I took it apart. Very simple and it works great!! Thanks

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Removed top cover. Removed front cover. Removed Drum. Located the broken belt. Found that there was no tensioner in the unit. Replaced drum rollers. Put in new tensioner. Repaced Drum with belt around it. Installed belt through tensioner and onto drive pully of motor. Supported Drum with wood block. Turned on dryer to insure drum turned without any problems. Removed wood block. Replaced front cover and top cover. Repair compete.

Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.

Removed back and then removed lint slide.
Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute.
Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24
years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.

first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!

1. Popped off hinged dryer lid at front and supported to allow access to lint chute
2. Removed back sheet metal panel
3. Removed dryer chute to expose sensor; removed same-deformed terminal on top needs to be straightened with pliers to remove through slot.
4. Installed new sensor; terminal needs to be twisted to ensure solid installation and good ground. Bottom pops in but took a bit of finagling.

Accessing and replacing the sensor was straightforward enough; bulk of the job was cleaning off old gasket material (severely degraded) in two locations. Used plastic scraper and razor blade scraper, then cleaned sticky with goo gone. Installed new gasket strip from Home Depot; available in rolls. I used 1/4" x 3/8". Surprising how much lint/hair/debris was in bottom of lint chute. Glad to get it all clean.

I actually bought $254 worth of parts almost to point of rebuilding , which included both roller axles, drum belt, idler pulley, both rollers, the cloth that wraps around the drum for edging, and light bulb. 15 years before this the heater element and thermostat and the belt. This dryer is 27 years old and still being used on a daily basis. The mechanical parts and no LED components can last a life time. The wife always wants new, but this dryer with alittle love and patience is a workhorse. I'm thankful for websites like this. The videos are helpful! Thank you Parts Select! Sincerely, MIke Orkin

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

Purchased new heating element and replaced. This was the number one recommendation for the fix for my problem. I do not have any measurement devices to check any of the parts. This was trial and elimination. The old element was badly burnt. Still no heat. The second recomendation was the thermal fuse. I purchased that and replaced. Still no heat. After reading through some of the repair forums on this site I decided to try one more time and replace the thermal cut off kit. A little harder to do because it required cutting and replacing some wire ends. That was the problem. We now have heat and once again I have a happy wife! I left the new element and the fuse in. The dryer heats much faster than it did.
The repair videos on this site were very helpful. Some of the wire changes on the Thermal Cut-off Kit can be very confusing.

He had to put it flat on one side in order to put the legs on it.