MDE18CSAYW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

Determined that the door switch was not making contact. Removed the lint screen, removed two screws in the lint screen housing, pulled the top of the dryer up at the front of the dryer. This provided access to the door switch which was mounted on top.

The brightness of the light was because the door switch was allowing too much current to the light bulb when the door was open but the switch would not swich the current to the dryer motor when the door was closed. After a day or so of this bright light it burned out. I removed the two screws on top that hold the lint trap in place then I could access the switch by sliding the top of the dryer forward and lifting the it as you would lift the hood of a car. The switch is on the right side and plugs into a three wire connector and only fits in one way. Cheap and easy fix after unplugging the dryer from the wall power outlet.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

After getting the part and sizing up what to do. I removed the 6 1/4 hex nuts from the back. I removed the 2 hinge nuts 3/8 and popped the lid of the dryer up. It wasn't coming up all the way. I removed the lint filter and removed the two #1 Phillips screws that held the lid to the duct and it came up easy.The switch itself was clipped together and came apart with ease. 2 #1 Phillips screws held the switch in place and quickly tightened down the new switch. I clipped the new switch to the old lead and just reversed the order putting it back together. The light worked and the drum stopped when the door was opened during the cycle. The part matched perfectly and there was no guess work about clearance. It was an easy repair.

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

followed the repair video .. unplug dryer ... removed screws on lint trap .. popped the top off the dryer .. removed the two screws on the switch ..unplugged the switch using a small screw driver .. replaced switch .. put it all back together .. it took about 20 minutes

First I diconnected the power to the dryer and removed the plug from the wall outlet. I then removed the two screws holding the lint vent on the top of the dryer. I used a putty knife to lift up the top. Then I opened the door and removed the two screws which held the door switch in place on the front of the dryer. After disconnecting the 3wire switch with two pliers (one for holding the switch and the other for holding the connector) I connected the new door switch. Finally, I put the screw back on the front, lowered the dryer top and reinserted the two screws for the lint vent. I plugged the dryer in, turned on the power and tested it for function.

I followed Steve's instructions from the video. 1. Unplug dryer. 2. Remove lint catcher. 3. Unscrew the two screws there and put screws to one side. 4. Release catches holding top of dryer and put top of dryer back against the wall. 5. Open dryer door and remove two screws holding the door switch that needed replacing, putting screws into the dryer. Remove switch. 6. Put in new dryer switch and put two screws back in to hold it. 7. Replace top of dryer, making sure catches are secure. 8. Put two screws back into lint filter area. 9. Replace lint filter. 10. Put plug back into the wall. Voila! The dryer light works and the dryer stops when I open the door during the cycle.

Turned off breaker to dryer. Removed 2 lint trap screws, raised top of dryer & unscrewed switch. Replaced door switch, closed top, replaced the 2 screws that hold lint trap, lowered top, then turned breaker back on.

then the video will not show you how to get the top off. It's very easy once you know where the clips and or screws are located. On my model, I used a putty knife on the bottom of the control panel edges. The panel will then rotate up. Then remove the 3 screws that hold on the top panel. Then slide the top panel out and up. Then you can follow the video to separate the electrical connector and 2 screws to remove the switch. Watch a video that show different techniques for different models.