LNC7749A71 Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jason from Farmingdale, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
dryer would not spin
Step 1. Read all the comments about how to do this job in this forum. (i found them very useful)
Step 2. Read the directions that come with the dryer (they helped a lot)
Step 3. Don't forget to disconnect the power cord before reattaching the door switch wires (oucH! ) or doing anything with your dryer.
Step 2. Read the directions that come with the dryer (they helped a lot)
Step 3. Don't forget to disconnect the power cord before reattaching the door switch wires (oucH! ) or doing anything with your dryer.
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- Customer:
- SHAWN from VERSAILLES, KY
- Parts Used:
- WP31001513
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
dryer would not shut off
Unplug dryer as to avoid shocking yourself. Removed 3 screws on top of panel then remove cover then use nut driver to remove 2 screws from timer placed new timer next to old one and transferred wiring from old to new. Place new timer in place and mound with screws. Reinstall cover and 3 screws and you're done.
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- Customer:
- Jeffrey from South Amboy, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Worn Out Drive Belt
Pull dryer out from wall about 6 to 8 inches step 1 - romove front/bottom access panel. Step 2 - remove lint trap and remove 2 screws (philips type) that is under lint trap door. Step 3 - push in 2 wood shime in front edge between lid and front panel (angled shims like door shims - a putty knife will work to, just be carful not to scratch finish) step 4 - fold lid upward and back (like on a hinge) step 5 - looking from where the bottom/front acces panel was losten 2 screws - one left one right about 3 turns - 9you can remove them it just makes it easier to reinstall the front panel. Step 6 - find appropriate pot or stacked 2 x 4 pieces - something to hold up the drum when you remove th front cover, and from underneeth support the drum. Step 7 - look thru bottm front access hole - there are 2 springs that come down from the door - and clip onto the frame of the fryer - unclip them and place on the side. Step 8 - remove 2 upper screws that hold front panel on, and remove front panel, if you left the bottom screws attached but loosened you have to lift up on the front panel a bit. Step 9 - looking from the bottom thru where access panel was - you will see motor on right with a additional roller (tensioner) - push upwards on tensioner to relieve pressure on motor and pop off belt (remember where tensioner is and how it clips in to base. Step 10 - work belt off of drum towars front - to remove it all the way you will have to lift up the drum slightly off of the pot or whatever you used for support so the belt can clear. Stem 11 - new belt goes on the same way you took to old one off - plat side away from drum with ribs against drum. Step 12 - again lift up on drum and work belt back on. Step 13 - tricky part is how to get the belt back on the motor - prentend you are threading a needle wht a folded over piece of thread - hold the belt with about a 4" loop with your left hand - hold up on tensioner and feed it back thru and work belt back over end of motor pulley, after front panel is back on with the 4 screws tightened spin the drum and make sure belt is between the 2 lines marked on the drum and remove the pot or whatever u used to prop up the drum. Dont forget to attach the springs for the door assemble all other components in reverse order. And dont forget to take the pot back out
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from SOUND BEACH, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Drum would not spin
Needed a belt. Only snag was for me was re-installing front panel (door)
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- Customer:
- bruce from east waterbrough, ME
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken Multi Rib Belt-92-1/4''
I took the back of my dryer off to see if the problem was there. I saw that the belt was broken and laying on the inside of the dryer. Took belt and went on line (Google) my KitchenAid Dryer from it's model number. The website was PartSelect. Found the belt I needed and saw a video on how to replace the belt. I called to order the belt and spoke to Steve, which help me with all my needs. Steve knew just the belt I was looking for and placed my order. The belt arrived a few days later. While I was waiting for the belt to come in, I removed the front of the dryer and get ready for reinstall. It took me about 15 minutes to install the belt and put the front of the dryer back together. I found PartSelect to be very helpful and saved me, maybe $150.00 by not having to call a serviceman to do the easy replacement. Thank you Steve and PartSelect, now I'm number 1 with the wife again.
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- Customer:
- Francis from LEXINGTON, MA
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer was heating, but not rotating
Pretty much just followed the video - I'd never opened a dryer before, so I'd watch a step, pause and do it, then run the video a few more minutes, and repeat. These dryers are really extremely simple devices: just a heater, then a motor to spin the drum and run the fan (I think the same motor does both). So you loosen a couple of screws, pry the metal case open, and slip on the new belt. Done! I didn't keep track of time, but I'm psyched to have saved myself a $200 repair call! Standard delivery arrived in less than two days, just like they said it would.
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Lancaster, MA
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Belt was broken so I replaced it
Followed the instructions and the repair went like clockwork, took less than an hour. I spent more time brushing and vacuuming old lint from the innards of the machine than I did doing the actual repair. Finished up $0.78 richer, too, from the change I found inside the machine.
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- Customer:
- Steve from WASHINGTON, IA
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Worn out belt
Was a little hard getting at the idler pulley being it was behind the blower assembly, but it was the only draw back.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Minneapolis, MN
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
dryer woudn't spin
well, the hardest part is getting this thing apart - you have to take out the lint trap and remove the two screws from the top. Then I was trying to lift the top off - it's held in place by clips so you have to gently but firmly lift it off from the front end and let it open while still semi attached at the back (like a chest). Detach the electrical wires - they are just clipped in place. Then remove the screws (one on each side) that attach the front panel, and (and this is the hardest part if you don't know how it's attached). You have to SLIGHTLY LIFT the front straight up and then pull it away towards you. I just pulled it off, breaking the little attachers, which I subsequently had to weld back on with a welding compound and leave it overnight to set. the next day was pretty easy though...
The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!
good luck!
The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!
good luck!
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- Customer:
- Andrew from Ballston Spa, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Broken dryer belt
I went to repair the dryer belt only to realize that it was jumping off the pulley(edge was worn away). If you are replacing the belt, make sure your pulley is good before you order your parts. I ended up having to go to lowes and make a pulley!
Works great though.
Works great though.
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- Customer:
- Carolyn from UTICA, NY
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My dryer heated but would not tumble, the belt was the problem, it broke. UNPLUG APPLIANCE
I watched an online video about how to replace a dryer belt & followed the directions. Placing the belt around the drum is easy but stringing it thru the pulley is a little difficult because the belt has tension. This takes a little effort but is doable. Dryer runs great now........Be sure to unplug appliance 1st........
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- Customer:
- BRIAN from MILWAUKEE, WI
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
broken belt
Shut off power and gas, unscrewed lint vent, raised top on angle with rope, unscrewed and moved door switch, unscrewed and took off front, put new belt around drum, then raised front end of drum with 4 narrow pieces of 1" foam insulation which let me view and install the belt connection to the drive motor shaft, adjusted the level of the drum using the rope holding up the top, removed foam pieces, replaced and rescrewed the front to fit the drum front channel, replaced the door switch, replaced the top and screwed it to the lint vent, returned gas and power, and ran confirmation test.
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- Customer:
- David from Fairfax, VT
- Parts Used:
- 31001043
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Blower wheel worn
The website lists 2 wheels for this model, no info on the flat spot in the shaft. I ordered the less expensive wheel but it did not fit the shaft, got a refund, ordered the more expensive one, it fit with just a little tapping with a light hammer.
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- Customer:
- John from Philadelphia, PA
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
dryer belt replacement
I googled 'replace dryer belt' and found instructions on the 'Virtual Repair Man' web site. After reading the instructions through twice I began.
First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.
I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks
First I removed lent filter and removed the two screws that hold the lent body in place. I rotated the top panel up and back and leaned it on the wall; proped up the dryer drum with some scrap wood pieces; rotated the front panel of the machine out enough to slip the new belt, groves down, around the drum; reinstalled the idler pulley under the drum; raised the drum slightly and reattached the front panel. Reattached the top panel and replaced the filter. Did a test run and worked good.
I got a price from Sears for the part and they were asking $45 just for the belt. I saved enough in parts and labor to take my wife out for a real nice dinner. thanks
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- Customer:
- Stephen from Cincinnati, OH
- Parts Used:
- 341241
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The drive belt broke in half.
With no experience repairing appliances, I did figure it out that the drive belt was broken since the motor was running and the drum did not turn.
What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.
This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.
The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.
In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.
I was a hero to the wife, as usual.
What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.
This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.
The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener.
In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.
I was a hero to the wife, as usual.
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