MED3000BW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Pulled the back panel off with nut driver , reached in removed belt from pulley , disconnected the spring , removed the the 1 bolt holding the bracket .
Put the new one in , in reverse order . Very simple , maybe 15 minutes total . While back is off , shop vac out any lint !!

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

Use the adjustable wrench to remove the water line. Remove the dryer vent line. Take off the screws on the main back panel, the screws connecting the top. Place both off the side. Unscrew and remove the parts connecting to the heat line located on the left side. Remove the front unit screw attaching the heat line to the bottom of the dryer. Remove the four screws connecting the top and bottom of the heat line together. The two on the left side is a huge pain, make sure you have small hands to be able to reach on the side of the line. Pull the bottom of the heat line loose. The heating element is inside the line. Replace element and put everything back in the order it was removed.

Followed your video for replacing the Tension Pulley, Drum Belt and Drum Rollers. Models were not exact, but instructions were very clear and detailed enough for a "computer geek" to do the repair myself (with some help from my wonderful wife). Live in Ohio, parts came from Kentucky and I had them the next day! The dryer is almost 10 years old. Running great now. Thank You!

Followed the instructions on your video.

Removed back panel to get to inside. Removed drum etc to replace drum rollers (ordered repair kit also), replaced the idler pulley etc, now like new. Repair successful!!!! Thank you!

Removed the lower front cover of the dryer. Removed the lint filter and removed the cover from the air duct by removing two 1/4" bolts. Removed the two 1/4" bolts retaining the thermistor. Installed the new thermistor and covers.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I am a retired applaince repairman not recommended for amature to repair this model.

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.

First i did some research on the internet approx.1yr ago.Just in case any problems like this or any other kind of problems should arise which it did.The whole thing is Easy all you have to have is some basic knoledge of how things work.All of this came "OFF" in (4) sections.After installing everything back it was as "Quiet"as the day we purchased it.Good for another 5yrs.Retired welder & "J.O.A.T.Julian San Antonio,Texas

The videos really make it easy. I put my laptop on the washer next to my dryer and proceeded step by step. I also found the video that mentioned about the screws that may come loose on the baffles. I found several loose screws on the baffles which I tightened and I also found the Drum hole plug loose, so I also tightened the plug. Reassembled the unit and has been working like new since.

Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

Had previously replaced the heater coil (purchased from PartSelect) and fixed the no heat problem. Should have taken advice given on this site and replace the thermostat and thermal fuse kit at that time. Since I knew how to remove the assembly it was easier this time. Just remove, unscrew the two parts and replace with the new ones. Reattach the wires and reinstall the assembly and it is now working again. Also vacumed the inside and trimed and replaced the exhast vent hookup for less restriction.