4KMEDC300BW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Paul from Bradford, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP3387747
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Dryer runs with no heat
It was easier to remove the blower manifold cover, (3 screws) to get at the heater element. Remove the heat shield, disconnect the two wires from the element. There is another screw on the side holding the element in the housing. Remove it and slide the element torward you. I used pliers as it was a snug fit. Replace. Good time to vacuum the whole area.
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- Customer:
- John from Madison, WI
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Poorly designed lint filter/ gasket falls off
Replaced
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- Customer:
- Mark from San Diego, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10470674
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Needed to change rear exhaust to the side to fit dryer into my closet.
First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.
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- Customer:
- Steven from Rantoul, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP3979617
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Timer stopped working
Well I unplugged the dryer, then I removed all the screws off the back of the main console. After that I unscrewed the old timer. Then I one by one moved the wires from the old timer control to the new timer control. Then i screwed in the new timer control. After that I screwed the back plate for the main console back on. And finally I plugged the dryer back in. And there you go it was that easy.
I also wanted to say that this experience with parts select was most amazing one too. I ordered the part one day with a 3 to 5 day delevery time. The following day I checked on the status and found out that the part would be here the next day so I was really amazed that it would be that quick. I would recommend and would come back to parts select for futuer needs for appliance parts.
I also wanted to say that this experience with parts select was most amazing one too. I ordered the part one day with a 3 to 5 day delevery time. The following day I checked on the status and found out that the part would be here the next day so I was really amazed that it would be that quick. I would recommend and would come back to parts select for futuer needs for appliance parts.
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dryer wouldnt heat
First i tested each part for continuity and found out that the thermal fuse was bad. So ordered the part and went ahead and got thermostat and element to ensure no problems in the future since I already was in there.
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- Customer:
- Keith from Richmond, VA
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Idler Pulley broke
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.
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- Customer:
- Jeff from Mesa, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10314173
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
noisy drum
the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.
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- Customer:
- Jerry Duty from Fort Walton Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
idler pully sqwieling
once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!
and your done !!!
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- Customer:
- Rebecca from Laredo, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The felt strip on the filter had come undone.
Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!
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Dryer starts with loud squeak initially. Eventually there was a loud clank and dryer stopped.
Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.
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- Customer:
- John from Midland, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
seal for lint filter came off
Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter
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- Customer:
- Kim K from Hurst, TX
- Parts Used:
- 279640
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer would not turn
My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you
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- Customer:
- Inocencio from Edinburg, TX
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door Catch was broken
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.
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- Customer:
- LARRY from NEWNAN, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP3387747
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Dryer tumbled but would not heat
Used socket set to remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Manually pulled the panel out at the bottom, pulled down, and removed the panel. Looked to right and found heater shield. Removed heather shield using socket set. Removed the two wires from the terminal block (had to use a little WD40 to loosen connection and wiped up afterwards). Removed the holding screw holding the heating element using the socket set. Pulled HARD on old heating element using pliers and a rag (protection from accidental cut-sharp edges). Once out, the new element slid in relatively easy. Screwed the new element back into place and re-connected the element wires, then put the heater shield back into place. Put the toe panel back into place. Tested and worked great! The only thing that made this "easy" but not "really easy" is that I had to really pull HARD on the old element to get it out...with the sharp edges and tight fit in play, you'll need to pay attention to safety when removing the old element.
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- Customer:
- John from Cedar Rapids, IA
- Parts Used:
- 279973
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
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