4KMEDC300BW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you

Unplugged dryer. Removed dial. Removed old timer (3 screws) and left wires attached. Installed new timer. Disconnected wires from old timer to connect on new timer. Plugged in dryer......everything worked again.

I followed the repair Vedic and took the drum out and replaced the pulls and bracket. Very straightforward job. Dryer is now as quite as the first day we bought it.

Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.

Removed the two screws under the lint trap
Opened the top (had to use flathead screwdriver to release latches)
Disconnected door switch harness from front panel
Removed 2 screws holding front panel on dryer
Lifted out dryer drum (previous belt had broken)
Vacuumed inside of dryer (found $3 in quarters!)
Put new belt around drum
Put drum back in dryer, using empty laundry soap bottle to support its weight
Looped belt around pulley and motor; secured pulley to dryer bottom
Made sure rear gasket thingy was aligned properly and drum turned freely
Put front panel back on
Re-attached door switch
Closed top and put screws back in under lint trap
Fired it up - WOOHOO!

Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.

I saw some videos suggesting you remove the back panel.Then I saw a video where only the kick plate was removed and the element was removed that way.
I removed both the back panel and kick plate.At first I thought I was wasting my time however once I got started I was glad I removed both back and front.
There was a significant amount of lint in the bottom of the dryer which made it easier to remove.
It also made it easier to remove the heater element.
I hope this helps.

Repair job took less than 10 minutes: 1) Unplug Dryer 2) Remove Lint screen and 2 Phillip screws 3) use flat putty knife to depress lid latches while lifting (latches located approx 2 - 3 inches from each side. 4) unplug defective door switch 5) remove 2 Phillip screws that secure the door switch. Reinstall switch repeating the above steps in reverse order and your done.

Removed the back panel and saw that the idler pulley was worn out. It only took me 5min. To replace, it was very easy to replace.

checked all the thermostats and the heating element all good had continuity checked the red wire from the timer to the element and it was not sending 120v to the element consistently ordered the timer and replaced in 15 minutes had my dryer heating and drying clothes
parts select had all the wiring diagrams on my model and a how to do video made it easy peasy

I had already taken the coil out of the heating housing to check for a break in the heating element. I took this time to vacuum out all the lint inside the cabinet. I slid the new coil into the housing and reattached the wires. Plugged the dryer back in and turned it on to make sure the coil heated up. It worked so I put all the screws back in and fastend the front back on and were in bussiness!

Took off back of dryer Undid belt from belt adjuster pulled and took off adjuster put new one on redid belt and put back on dryer. Done