7MMGDC400DW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on

Used the maintenance kit....followed the movie tutorial. I also used an empty gallon plastic container to support the front of the drum while stretching the belt over the motor pulley. For the rear drum rollers, before sliding them on the shaft, I put a light grease film on the shaft. After the repair, the dryer runs quieter.

Removed 5 screws holding the back plate in place and removed the 5 different connections to the timer. I had a fair amount of difficulty "releasing" the old timer from its two clips that held the timer in place. I really needed a special pair of pliers that I could grip the pressure clips. Sad to say that in the process of releasing the bottom clip I broke of the clip. It turned out that I didn't need the lower clip to securely hold the new timer in place. There was substantial pressure against the timer given by the cable connections that the timer held in place. Replaced the back plate.

After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

The design of the dryer did not make the conversion easy, I had to disassemble the entire front end, top and remove the drum. The kit included a new spud that's it (22.00?). Anyway the gas valve is convertible from NAT to LP only requires turning a portion of the valve about 25 degrees. I managed with a screwdriver as I could not locate my snap ring pliers(just moved). The directions were spot on, read them through once before you start.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

After replacing many, many parts the dryer still does not work! Replaced Thermo Fuse, Thermostate, Cycling Thermostat, Coils, Ingition Sensor and Ignitor. Ran meters across all incoming power, timer control, ignitor power, etc. all check out according to schematic. Incoming gas supply is functioning. So, 6 parts recommended later still same problem. On the good side, all parts were shipped out very quickly. Highly impressed with service.

Part came in about 3 days. After reading and checking what was wrong with the Dryer -- which i read if there was no noise coming from the dryer it was the door switch, Looked up the part number and then saw a video that showed how to install the door switch. The video was so informative and precise on everything you had to do and easy Saved money on a service call.

Take the door off of the dryer. Lay it on a towel. Remove old gasket. Clean the channel the door gasket fits into with glue remover. Squeeze high temperature glue into the channel, let the glue set up. Put the new gasket into the channel, tape it down in a few places. Let it sit 24 hours for the glue to set up. Put the door back on. You can put the door on immediately as long as you don't use the dryer for 24 hours. Easy.

unplug the dryer used nut drive to take the back off unhook the hose from dryer . disconnect the wires. remove the 2 screws from thermal cut -off . install the new parts

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

I followed the video. So easy..