MED6300TQ0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer.
2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front.
3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap.
4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other.
5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel.
6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...

Like another reviewer's repair story, I decided to take the door apart. It was too difficult, at least for me, to get the faulty catch out without damaging either the the door or my hands. This is why I give it an "easy" rather than "very easy" rating and put the total repair time at a half hour or better. I also decided I wanted a second person to help - not with getting the door apart or putting it back together, but because a second pair arms was very helpful in rehanging the door well. We removed the door (four screws), marking which side of the hinge needed to be flush with the actual dryer when rehanging. Then we took the door apart, which comprises another sixteen screws (four on each edge). We used an electric drill but I'm sure it could be done manually. We used needle nosed pliers to get the faulty latch out of that side of the door, then replaced it with the "back up" from the other side. Then we put the door back together and carefully rehung it. Done. We did decide that, in future, all kids (we have three boys) slamming the door would be severely beaten. Pushing the door until it's against the dryer, then PUSHING (as opposed to slamming) the latch ONTO the catch pin on the dryer is obviously what was intended. However, I've learned not to count on my boys being particularly conscientious, so I'd ordered four replacement latches to keep on hand. This machine was delivered in April 2009 and I replaced the latch in April 2011. Based on this and our laundering habits, I'm sure the others will be used long before the dryer calls it quits.

Removed the broken catch with a pair of needle nose pliars and replaced it the same way. Took about 10 minutes. Saved a Service Call

Removed the two screws under the lint trap
Opened the top (had to use flathead screwdriver to release latches)
Disconnected door switch harness from front panel
Removed 2 screws holding front panel on dryer
Lifted out dryer drum (previous belt had broken)
Vacuumed inside of dryer (found $3 in quarters!)
Put new belt around drum
Put drum back in dryer, using empty laundry soap bottle to support its weight
Looped belt around pulley and motor; secured pulley to dryer bottom
Made sure rear gasket thingy was aligned properly and drum turned freely
Put front panel back on
Re-attached door switch
Closed top and put screws back in under lint trap
Fired it up - WOOHOO!

Unplug dryer from receptial. Poped top off, useing thin bladed screw driver to push tintion springs, while pulling up on lid. removed two no 10 sheet metal screws, useing 1/4 nut driver, this removes loading door by pulling uo 1/4 inch. Removed twi NO 10 sheet metal screws useing 1/4 nut driver, removed front carrage system. Removed belt then tub. Removed idler arm spring useing plires, used 5/8 inch socket removed sholder bolt with arm. Reverced procedure with one execption. Used two by four to hold tub up so belt could be put on, rolled tub to alline belt. Not bad for 70 Years young. Curtiss

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.

Used putty knife to release catches on dryer top. Removed two screws in Lint Filter cover. Used Nut driver to remove the screws holding the front on. Removed the drum and had easy access to all the parts I was having trouble with. I believe the real problem was the Idler pulley but since I was already there I replaced the drum rollers also. While drum was out I vacuumed the inside of the cabinet. After parts were replaced i put everything back together in reverse order. Very Easy

Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.

Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.

very easily

Just follow the instructions the one was provided with Maitanace kit we bought from you.

I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.

Take door off dryer (unscrew four screws). Lay door on flat surface. Using glue provided glue down new seal. Put dryer door back on and you're done!

I looked at the parts breakdown to see how it cam apart.

I tore the dryer down,
1. removed the door
2. openned the top
3. removed front panel
4. removed fron bulkhead
5. removed belt and drum
6. removed back cover
7. removed the ductwork
8. removed the fan (this is the hardest part, it is very tight on the motor with left hand threads, there are flats on the (inside of the dryer)fan where the motor shaft goes into the fan for a wrench and you can put a socket on the front pulley on the motor. I ended up just knocking the center out of the fan and replacing it.
9. removed the motor and cleaned the entire unit
10. reinstalled everything in reverse order. Note:I went ahead and replaced the idler pulley and the rear wheels that support the drum, and put a new belt in (just about
everything that could fail) I spent about $200 to keep a $1200 dryer in service at least another 7 years.

I pulled off the front panel to access the motor and pulley systems underneath the tumbling cylinder. I disconnected the tension spring on the pulley assemble. Then after sliding the belt off the pulley, I removed the screw that held the pulley to the bracket. I put the new pulley on, slide the belt over the new pulley and attached the spring. Nothing difficult, just a little uncomfortable squeezing both hands into the bottom space.