MDG5806AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Removed top, remove front panel, removed drum assembly brace, removed drum and belt . The belt and rotor were shot. I replaced both drum support rollers since i was there. Then replaced the motor and Idler lever and pulley, the put the belt on and put everything back. This unit will last a while longer and the grand total including next day air 175.00. I tried to just by the motor locally but for 242.00 I got every thing listed above.
Thanks

Un plug the dryer ***
Pulled the top portion of the dryer off
Used socket to undue two nuts to remove the front panel and unhooked the wires.
unscrewed 3 screws and took out the air duct assembly. Cleaned the dryer of all lint and replaced the air duct with a new one.
Reverse the process.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

Searched Maytag.com and other sources, only partselect.com had what I needed. Three days after my purchase, our dryer lint screen was again fully functional.

First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

Unscrew 3 screws at the top of the dryer. Remove face plate and discounted 6 leads connecting them to the new control board as you take them from the old one.

Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-
Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel.
Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate size 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.
Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.
Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!
Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

The most difficult part of this repair was to diagnose it correctly. The dryer will run but will heat up for five minutes and then shut off and continue just on air drying. It will reset itself if you shut it down and restarted it again, to do just the same for another five minutes. All troubleshooting guides will tell you to replace limits, thermostat, flame sensor but nothing will tell you that the gas valve is shutting down.I found the problem after I bypass all limits to make sure that they were not dropping out and by process of elimination I came up with the gas valve.
The process to replace gas valve is as follows:
(A) Shut off incoming gas to dryer.
(B) Remove flexible connector from dryer located in the back of it.
(C) Remove all gas fittings attached to the pipe kit after removal of flex connector.
(D)Now place yourself in front of the drier and snap just the front of the top cover upwards without removing it.
(E) Place something in between the cover and the dryer drum just to keep the cover open.
(F)Disconnect the three wires of the door switch.
(G)Remove two 5/16" self tapping screws located in the top front (left and right) of the inside of the dryer.
(H) Pick up the front cover of the dryer and remove.
(I)With a phillips screw driver remove the three screws on the inside of the dryer that holds you air shoot and filter screen assembly.
(J)After the filter assembly is removed, clean all lint from blower wheel(now visible) and also from the filter assembly.
(K) Unplug all connectors to gas valve and also to the hot surface ignitor.
(L) Remove the flame sensor assembly with a 1/4" socket.
(M)With a 5/16" socket remove the burner assembly with extreme care not to damage the hot surface ignitor.
(N) Remove all three 5/16" screws that hold the gas valve and pipe kit.
(O) Remove complete gas valve and pipe assembly.
To install new gas valve assembly follow these instructions in reverse.
If you follow methodically all these instructions, you will have a successfull repair and remember at the end of this project your better half is going to know that you are a heroe.