MLE24PRAYW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch

this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.

1 screw to replace.

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

Just replaced the old lint filter.