MDG3050AGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Lisa from Trenton, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3705180, WP6-3700340, WPY312527, WP354987
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer made very loud squealing, screeching noise. (Sometimes Intermittent, sometimes constant)
Note: You may want to consider replacing the 2 Drum Support rollers at this time (while your in there)
1. UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FIRST.
2. Using a phillips head screw driver - Remove 2 screws that secure the dryer door hinges to the frame, Lift door very slightly to unhook hinges and pull out door with hinges attached as straight as possible, set aside. Remove the 2 plastic tabs from the opposing side of the door hinge also secured by screws.
3. Remove the front panel (panel is shaped like a football goal post) by tilting out the top ends of the front panel toward you, then lift up to remove panel from the bottom metal retaining tabs.
4. Remove the 2 hexhead screws from the 2 retaining clips (security hooks) that secure the top
of the dryer closed.
5. Systematically remove the hexhead screws from the rest of the front of "shroud" (it holds (suspends) the drum in place between the front and back of the dryer).
*** I didn't disconnect any wires, I carefully swung out each piece that had wires attached, propped up those parts vertically ensuring no strain on the attached wires. Others may want to disconnect wires to avoid breaking or damaging them.
6. Vacuum out any dust/lint that may be present.
7. Draw a quick diagram of how the underside of the belt is threaded on the idler pulley and motor pully first. Release the tension of the belt from the underside of the drum. The easiest way is to push the idler pulley arm away from the belt and slide off the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley. Slide the drum out.
8. Remove the hexhead screw from the bottom of the idler arm. Disconnect from retaining spring.
9. You may only need to replace just the Idler Pulley Wheel. I recommend replacing as a "unit" the Idler Pulley Wheel, Idler Arm, Ring-E and Idler Shaft Washer(s) - then you can just swap out the old one for the new one.
10. Reassemble
(When reassembling the belt - place around drum first and slide drum in place. Now from the underside-place (drape) belt around the motor pulley (it will be very loose) Now push the idler pulley arm toward the motor pulley, engage the left side of the belt around the idler pulley and slowly allow idler pulley to increase its tension on the belt) You can test manually by rotating the drum by hand to ensure proper movement.)
1. UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FIRST.
2. Using a phillips head screw driver - Remove 2 screws that secure the dryer door hinges to the frame, Lift door very slightly to unhook hinges and pull out door with hinges attached as straight as possible, set aside. Remove the 2 plastic tabs from the opposing side of the door hinge also secured by screws.
3. Remove the front panel (panel is shaped like a football goal post) by tilting out the top ends of the front panel toward you, then lift up to remove panel from the bottom metal retaining tabs.
4. Remove the 2 hexhead screws from the 2 retaining clips (security hooks) that secure the top
of the dryer closed.
5. Systematically remove the hexhead screws from the rest of the front of "shroud" (it holds (suspends) the drum in place between the front and back of the dryer).
*** I didn't disconnect any wires, I carefully swung out each piece that had wires attached, propped up those parts vertically ensuring no strain on the attached wires. Others may want to disconnect wires to avoid breaking or damaging them.
6. Vacuum out any dust/lint that may be present.
7. Draw a quick diagram of how the underside of the belt is threaded on the idler pulley and motor pully first. Release the tension of the belt from the underside of the drum. The easiest way is to push the idler pulley arm away from the belt and slide off the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley. Slide the drum out.
8. Remove the hexhead screw from the bottom of the idler arm. Disconnect from retaining spring.
9. You may only need to replace just the Idler Pulley Wheel. I recommend replacing as a "unit" the Idler Pulley Wheel, Idler Arm, Ring-E and Idler Shaft Washer(s) - then you can just swap out the old one for the new one.
10. Reassemble
(When reassembling the belt - place around drum first and slide drum in place. Now from the underside-place (drape) belt around the motor pulley (it will be very loose) Now push the idler pulley arm toward the motor pulley, engage the left side of the belt around the idler pulley and slowly allow idler pulley to increase its tension on the belt) You can test manually by rotating the drum by hand to ensure proper movement.)
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Replaced two parts in the gas heater assembly
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
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- Customer:
- Clarence from Vienna, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP33002793
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Dryer wouldn't heat
I removed the front of the dryer by removing the two screws on the bottom of the front panel, disconnected the door switch wires. I removed the connectors from the coils on the gas valve, the heat sensor and the igniter. Loosened the gas line at the valve. I removed the screw holding the gas valve and burner assembly and removed the assembly from the dryer. Remover the screw holding the burner to the valve, and removed the igniter. Replaced the burned and reconnected what I had removed. The reason the burner didn't light was due to the gas deflectors being burned off of the burner, If the igniter, sensor, and coils check out OK , check the front of the burned to besure it is deflecting gas to the igniter
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- Customer:
- Lynn from Novi, MI
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Heat Would Not Come On
After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.
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- Customer:
- Matthew from Lombard, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP33001807
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rear Felt seal came out, squealing sound when drying
Turned off gas and unplugged dryer
1) Removed bottom front panel
2) lifted top panel up like a car hood
3) Removed door springs
4) disconnected electrial connections to door unit, removed door unit
5) removed drum, scraped old felt from drum
6) glued new felt with a very strong glue (nanoglue or gorilla glue, same thing), let it dry overnight
7) secured back inside panel, replaced drum and put dryer back together.
1) Removed bottom front panel
2) lifted top panel up like a car hood
3) Removed door springs
4) disconnected electrial connections to door unit, removed door unit
5) removed drum, scraped old felt from drum
6) glued new felt with a very strong glue (nanoglue or gorilla glue, same thing), let it dry overnight
7) secured back inside panel, replaced drum and put dryer back together.
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- Customer:
- Inocencio from Edinburg, TX
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door Catch was broken
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from Rogers, AR
- Parts Used:
- MAL9000AXX
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
converted gas dryer to LP
Instructions were great. Very step by step. It could not have been easier. Repair saved me a $100 service call.
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- Customer:
- SALLY from ANAHEIM, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP33001762
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer wouldn't start
We tried replacing the door switch first, still didn't start. Next we tried the thermal fuse and it turned on and has worked ever since.
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- Customer:
- Terry from Caruthersville, MO
- Parts Used:
- 33001790, WP33001789
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
loud noise inside dryer
After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.
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- Customer:
- PHILIP from LONG ISLAND CITY, NY
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Time clock not moving .Not enough heat
Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.
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- Customer:
- Shawn from Dover, NH
- Parts Used:
- 306436
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken clip for door latch
popped out old female clasp on dryer itself with screwdriver, undid 2 screws on dryer door and door handle with phillips screwdriver, popped in new male clasp part, put door knob back on and put the two screws back in door and it was all set to go. Less than 15 minutes to do. Better than new and wife is happy. No more duct tape holding door closed now.
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- Customer:
- Jorge from Longwood, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP33001621, WP22001664, WP22001659
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Timer knob broke from the middle.
Researched for the part numbers and found the parts needed. In this case the timer knob is made up of 3 separate pieces that easily snap together.
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Burner would not go on on my Stack Set Dryer
Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!
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The Dryer would not get hot.
I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.
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dryer not heating up
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!
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