MDG3050AEW Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Miles from Bartlett, IL
- Parts Used:
- 4391996
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
After replacing igniter, unit wouldn't flame on.
After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame.
I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.
I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Chicago, IL
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
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- Customer:
- Ronnie from SENATOBIA, MS
- Parts Used:
- WP33002032
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replacing broken Baffles in drum.
Removed four philips screws, two holding door on and two on opposite side of door in order to remove front cover. Then removed two 5/16 screws holding clips that lock the top cover down. Then the top cover hinges up with open access to the drum. The baffles are held into place with two #10 x 1 1/4" screws with 5/16" head each. These had pulled through the drum. Installed new baffles (do NOT come with screws / you'll have to buy some). Had to put small washers (also had to buy) on the screws to hold it onto the drum since the other screw heads pulled through the drum. Closed lid, installed retaining clips, installed door onto frame, installed front cover around door, then screwed door hinges into front cover and screws to other side. Took about as long to write these directions as it did to actually do the work... EASY job!!
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- Customer:
- Jack from Memphis, TN
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The dryer door latch was broken.
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.
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- Customer:
- Tara from North Canton, OH
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Female End Of The Door Catch Broke
First I put the square female end iof the door catch kit nto the square hole as snug as I could. Then I gently pushed the door against the piece until I heard it click in to place. That's it!! Sooooo simple--
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- Customer:
- Charles from Long Beach, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
No heat...
Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.
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- Customer:
- Thurman from Huntsville, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3705180, WP6-3700340
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Squeaking noise while spinning
removed dryer door 4 screws
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps
removed front panel
removed front tumbler bracket
removed blower cover
removed wires attached to heat and door sensors
removed top
removed drum and belt
removed side panel
removed clamp holding idler pulley
replaced pulley and clamp
reversed above steps
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- Customer:
- Buck from FLORENCE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP33001807, 306508
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer making grinding noise, and spotting clothes with black dust.
Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.
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- Customer:
- Scott from Sacramento, CA
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
No Heat sometimes, But for a moment then None
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.
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- Customer:
- Eli from North Stonongton, CT
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Door would not stay shut
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.
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Blower wheel was wobbly about the shaft, producing a lot of vibration and noise.
Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
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- Customer:
- James from LARAMIE, WY
- Parts Used:
- LA-1003
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken Catch
Watch the video. Very, very easy
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- Customer:
- William from Chicago, IL
- Parts Used:
- 279834
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Gas dryer would not heat - pilot lit briefly then went off
Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit
PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit
PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.
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- Customer:
- DONALD from FORT MILL, SC
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3700340, WP33002535, WP33001807, 12001541
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Dryer was noisy and seemed to be loosing heat
Did an internet search for parts for my older Maytag dryer. Landed on PartSelect and man I am glad I did! Entered my model number and boom! Complete schematics on the dryer, with part numbers. Also have diagnostic questions to point you in the right direction. Figured out what parts I needed, ordered via phone. Fantastic customer service. PartSelect also has excellent installation videos you can watch to assist. Took me a little over an hour to open up the dryer, replace the drum rollers, drum belt, idler roller and both front and rear felt seals. Buttoned dryer back up, hit the run switch and it purs like brand new. I cannot recommend PartSelect to highly. Great company, great customer service, quick shipping.
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- Customer:
- Steve from SANDY, UT
- Parts Used:
- WP6-3700340, WP33002535, 33002459, 12001541
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
These were changed proactively while I had the dryer apart to replace the motor.
I removed the control panel and front panel, then the brace holding in the drum. Then the drum came out easily.
Replacing the rollers is easy, use circlip pliers to remove the old circlips, replace the rollers, and reinstall the circlips.
After removing the idler pulley by removing one bolt and the spring, I replaced the idler roller, again with the circlip pliers. Then the idler arm bolts back to the motor mount, and the spring is replaced.
Reinstalling is easy - place the drum, have someone support it while you install the drum brace, then replace the front panel, then the control panel.
Replacing the rollers is easy, use circlip pliers to remove the old circlips, replace the rollers, and reinstall the circlips.
After removing the idler pulley by removing one bolt and the spring, I replaced the idler roller, again with the circlip pliers. Then the idler arm bolts back to the motor mount, and the spring is replaced.
Reinstalling is easy - place the drum, have someone support it while you install the drum brace, then replace the front panel, then the control panel.
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