MDG9700AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Robert from Ambler, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dryer will not get hot
Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.
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- Customer:
- Joe from West Palm Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP35001193
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer turns on no heat
Test thermal fuse for resistance. If has 0 resistance you have a bad fuse. Also check voltage going to wall outlet. Must use at least 600 volt tester. Motor will run on 110 volts, but will not activate heating element. Heating element must have 240 volts to operate. Always make sure you turn off power when working on electrical problems. Be safe and good luck.
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- Customer:
- Mario from SAN DIEGO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
No heat just tumble
Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Royal Palm Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Clothes were not getting dry enought
Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"
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- Customer:
- Lee from St. Louis, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer not staying hot
Ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat
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- Customer:
- Beatriz from Sharonville, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP35001193, WP35001191
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the thermistor was open circuit
I change the Thermistor 3 bracket and worked well for 10 minutes and the thermistor is broken again
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- Customer:
- Rodney from Zimmerman, MN
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Our dryer would not ignite, so I figured it was the radiant flame sensor. Well, I out that in and still nothing. I found out that the Tube Burner was also burned off on the flame end, by the igniter. I also ordered that part. installed it, and it works beautifully.
On the Amana dryer, I had to remove the top panel. then the front panel to access the burner assembly. I also had to remove the gas pipe coming to the burner, because I replaced the tube burner assembly at the same time. There is only one screw that holds that back end of that gas pipe. The thermal flame sensor is on the left side of the burning chamber, with only one small Phillips head screw. just remove the 2 wires, keeping track of which terminal they belong. Just twist the sensor out of the small slot, and out it comes. The tube burner assembly is fastened with 2 screws. The entire burner assembly comes out in one piece, but be real careful not to bang the igniter when removing it. The coil assembly has 2 wires, which you cannot get wrong, because one has 2 prongs, the other has 3 wires.The local repair shop wanted 90 bucks per hour, plus parts, and I installed both the burner tube and radiant flame sensor for around $80.
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- Customer:
- John from Kearney, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP35001193, WP35001092
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No heat
*Disconnect power cord before performing this task...(1) Remove the two screws holding top.(2) Remove four screws holding control module, tilt forward, pull up and unlatch. Place module on top, out of the way (still connected by wires). (3) Open dryer door, remove two screws holding lint trap assembly, close door. (4) Remove four screws on top of front cover, disconnect door light wire, tilt front cover forward, lift up from catch at bottom and remove. (5) Disconnect moisture sensor connection on bottom right for easier access to duct assembly. (6) Remove three screws holding duct assembly support bracket in place, raise duct assembly six inches to allow the bracket to be tilted toward rear and lifted out of the way. (7) Disconnect Red and Blue wires from front of duct assembly and pull assembly carefully from the rear of the unit and out the front paying attention to the wires still connected. (8) Remove wires connected to the thermostat and thermistor. (9) Remove screws holding in both units and replace with new components. (10) Reverse process and test. *note* if the unit appears to heat but clothing still wet, make sure moisture sensor was connected (I must have forgot and got to go back in to check, ooops). Regardless, this is an easy task. Could be intimidating at first but after the part has been accessed twice its no big deal and can be done over a lunch break.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Waxhaw, NC
- Parts Used:
- WPW10222771
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Heating element not working
IMPORTANT!!! Unplug the unit first!! 1 - Remove two screws on the back of the top of the unit. Pull back a little on the top to release it from underneath the control unit on the front of the dryer (the piece with the dial and buttons). 2 - Remove the four screws from the control unit. They are located at the top of the dryer. Pop off the control unit - don't worry about breaking any wires as there are none. 3 - Remove the front of the dryer by removing the four screws that are NOT used for the door and door latch. I had also removed the door latch and door but I don't think it is necessary to remove them. The front will swing out from the bottom where you can unhook it and remove it. 4 - the heating element is located on the front of the unit, bottom right. Either draw a diagram of the wires or take a picture of them with your cell phone. Smart phones are great for this as you can zoom the picture if necessary. Remove the wires (they just push on but it may take some effort to get them off). It's either one or two of the wires that are not part of the wiring harness and they go from one part of the element to another so don't get excited if these wires fall down - you haven't done anything wrong, they are just loose. The one screw in the front holds the element in (the back of the unit just rests in that hole). Remove the screw and pull the unit out. Put the new element in, hook up the wires before positioning the element. Put the screw back in that holds the element and put the rest of the dryer back in the reverse order.
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- Customer:
- David M from Watertown, WI
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would heat up for a short time, then shut off
First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.
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- Customer:
- Cody from Jonesboro, AR
- Parts Used:
- WP35001191, WP35001087
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer wouldn't start.
I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Land O Lakes, FL
- Parts Used:
- 35001150, WP35001092
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
would not heat
changed high limit switch, and sensor grid and thermo fuse
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Yuma, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W10296563
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Clunking sound when dryer was running
After removing the top (2 screwa) I removed the control panel (4 screws), top support that held the control panel (3 screws), the front pane (6 screws and one wiring harnes) and the internal panel (5 screws and two wiring harnesses) With these removed I loosen the belt by pulling it off of the tensioning pulley and remeove the drum assembly. I took the beltoffof the old drum and reversed the process to re-install the drum. This is the 3rd drum for this dryer,the other ones were replace due to the felt seal failing.
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- Customer:
- Diane from Huntington Beach, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP338906
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Dryer would not heat. No flame or gas
Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.
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- Customer:
- Jamesii from MILAN, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP35001191
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The dryer would run and heat up then turn off and alarm before the clothes were dry. The display would read tO.
After reading other posts, I learned that "tO" meant that the thermistor was open. Also, I read that this part would bench test with a multimeter correctly but could still malfunction in the dryer. FIRST UNPLUG DRYER. After checking all of the exhaust ducting including inside the dryer for any blockages that could result in an overheating problem I decided to order a new thermistor. To replace thermistor: First, there are two screws at the rear top that you remove and the top tilts up and comes off. There are four screws on the top front that removes the front control panel. Next remove the screws at the top of the dryer, two screws in recesses behind the door and tilt front forward while unplugging the door switch. Lift and remove front with door attached. Remove screws from exhaust duct and slide down and out. Thoroughly clean inside of duct and fan blades. Clean out any other lint build up. Locate thermistor to the right of duct, unplug and remove two screws. Replace with new part and reassemble while not forgetting to plug the door switch back in. At the rear of dryer, remove screws around exhaust duct and remove. Dryer will have to be slid away from wall about three feet to remove duct from inside dryer. Clean thoroughly and check/clean and check for blockages in ducting from dryer to outdoors. Re assemble making sure rear duct engages the front ducting properly.Plug dryer back in and enjoy.
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