MDG10CSAAL Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.

After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

We used previous installation instructions, which were quite good – we embellished the directions where we ran into some things that weren’t mentioned.

1. Remove the back access plate to release the belt from the pulley.
2. Remove the two screws at the bottom front of the dryer, rotate the front to release it at the top. Remove the wires from the door status switch.
3. Remove the 4 nuts holding the drum support frame and pull straight out.
4. Putting one hand inside the drum and supporting it, gently pull the drum toward you until it clears the rollers. Reach in along both sides of the outside top of the drum and slide the belt off the back of the drum. With a hand inside supporting the weight of the drum tip the drum slightly forward and out the front. Set it out of the way.
5. Remove the two bolts holding the thermostat cover (silver odd shaped metal plate at the front of the dryer).
6. Remove the dryer blower cover plate by removing the 6 bolts holding it to the blower housing with a short ¼” nut driver. Remember to remove the bolt holding the plate to the bottom of the dryer.
7. Release the door status wire from the clips on the left side of the dryer and set the blower housing plate to the right, out of your way without removing the wires.
8. Remove the blower wheel by removing the snap-ring at the front of the shaft and then removing the collar- compression clip.
9. Pull out the blower wheel (this was a bear as it was very tight on the shaft – the shaft-collar of the blower wheel has grooves in it. We used very small screw drivers to carefully pry the segment of the collar between the grooves away from the shaft and used a penetrating oil and with a very slight rocking force muscled the blower wheel off then removed the rear snap-ring from the motor shaft.
10. Release the 5 wires attached to the motor.
11. Remove the ground wire on the back of the motor by backing the screw out.
12. Release the front and back motor clips (Use a large straight-blade screw-driver to press down and out on the end of the clips.
13. Lift out the motor.
14. Remove the rear pulley from the motor using an Allen wrench and transfer it to the new motor (We used heavy duty thread locked on the Allen set screw. – When we removed the pulley it was necessary to heat the Allen set-screw area with a propane torch to soften the thread-locker cement. IF YOU NEED TO DO THIS MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE PLENTY OF TIME FOR THE PULLEY TO COOL BEFORE YOU HANDLE IT!
15. Set the new motor in the support frame, ensuring the lips of the vibration isolation rings are pointed down to slip over the frame and are not facing up towards the clips ( makes clip installation much easier).
16. Hook up the wires, following the color coding on the motor controller you are attaching to.
17. Hook up the ground wire on the back of the motor.
18. Reinstall the rear snap-ring, blower wheel (went on a lot easier than it came off), front snap-ring, collar-compression clip, blower housing front cover (Including the bolt to the dryer bottom) ,
19. Re-route the door switch wire up the left side and secure with clips.
20. Reinstall the thermostat cover,
21. Reinstall the drum and belt (use scotch tape to temporarily secure belt) , the drum front support frame (ensure the felt seals for the drum and the blower cover are properly aligned and seated correctly),
22. Reinstall the belt through the back access panel over the pulley and idler wheel (make sure the belt smooth side is against the drum, the grooved side against the pulley and the belt is inside the belt guide on the idler wheel and remove the scotch tape from the belt). Make sure no tools are in the dryer cabinet.
23. Rotate the drum clockwise a few revolutions to align the belt and reinstall the rear panel.
24. Hook up the door status wire before you set the front cover and install the 2 screws,

We previously replaced the front drum felt seal and the tumbler glides, the belt and both drum rollers.

First I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the two phillips head sheet metal screws near the bottom of the front panel at either side, swung the panel out from the bottom until it unhinged at the top for removal. I disconnected the wire to the door switch and placed the front panel out of the way. Next I unbolted the top from the side panels by removing the single bolt at the front top of each side panel. This allows the Top panel of the dryer to be raised enough to remove the drum. I slipped the drive belt off the back of the drum, lifted the top a few inches and removed the drum. Next I removed the face plate of the blower channel to get at the squirrel cage blower and disconnect it from the motor by removing the outer snap ring from the motor shaft and then used pliers to remove the spring clip from the hub of the blower cage allowing it to slide off the shaft. There was a second snap ring to remove behind the hub. With the blower off the 3 screws holding the blower channel to the motor mount were accessable and able to be removed along with a couple of scews holding the air channel to the dryer base allowing the whole assembly to be moved out of the way to get at the motor. Two more screws at the motor base were removed to free the motor. Three color coded wires were unclipped from the motor and it was out after removing the drive belt from the pulley. Getting the pulley off the old motor after 29 years of service proved to be the most difficult part of the repair. Had to heat the pulley with a propane torch until the glue holding the allen head set screw decomposed enough to allow me to break the set screw loose. Releasing the spring clips holding motor to frame was easy using a large screwdriver to push down in the end recess of the clip while prying against the frame. Reassembly took less than an hour. The color coded dots on the electrical connector block were identical to the original motor making the electrical reconnection a snap (These dots were clearly seen in the photos of motor on the PartSelect website so I knew I had the right motor). The drive belt reinstallation was a little tricky as you have to spool the belt correctly around the pulley then put the drum back in 3/4 of the way and start the belt on the back of the drum and work it forward about 5 inches to its running position. Rest was easy, no parts left over and it works like new again.

Frist I removed the front cover panel via removing 2 screws. Second I disconnected the door switch wires. Third I removed the 4 screws that hold the drum onto the rollers and guides that allows access to the blower wheel assembly cover. Fourth I remover the blower wheel assembly cover to gain access to the blower wheel. Fifth using the retaining removal tool removed the retaining ring from the shaft then removed the blower wheel using plyers. Then reassembled all of the parts and enjoy a quiet dryer again.

Thank you parts select!!!

The ignitor is easy to determine if it is defective. When you start the dryer and the ignitor does not glow , it is bad.
The replacement involves unpluging the dryer, opening the control access door ,the removal of one screw, unplug the bad ignitor, plug in the new ignitor, reinstall the one retaining screw, plug the dryer back in, check for proper opperation of the ignitor, and close the close the control access door.
Very easy

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

First I removed the front panel on the dryer. While the dyer was running, I noticed the igniter did not turn its normal amber color and ignite the gas supply. I then disconnected the wire to the igniter and removed the screw holding the igniter in place. Next I replaced the igniter, tightened the screw and reconnected the wire. Finally, I replaced the front panel. This is a relatively simple repair.

took cover off with key and removed one quarter inch screw and then pulled timer up and out. After verifying it was correct timer moved wires to new timer one at a time and reassembled and it now works fine.

Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.

How to disassemble the dryer has been covered in past repair stories. I will add a make shift repair that will get you up and running until you get your replacement blower wheel. We repair gas dryers for a living and this repair works and some machines are still running for two years. Remove the blower wheel. Cut a piece of plumber strap of similar sized metal to about 3/16" x 1/2". Hold it with vise grips and then heat it with a torch. When it is hot melt it into the hole in the blower wheel. This will give you a flat spot in the shaft hole that will keep the blower from spinning on the motor shaft. Some trial and error fitting is involved. If you do it carefully the blower wheel will fit very nicely and will not vibrate or make noise.

The repair was very simple. I took off the two screws on the fron of the dryer to remove the front panel which gained me access to the drum. I used a nut driver to remove the two screws that held the orignal short baffle and screwed in the new short baffle. Very simple very quick. The amazing thing with this problem is that I ordered the part on Thursday and recieved it on the very next day!!!!!!