MED5801TW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

The dryer stopped heating. Took the front lower panel off of the dryer and obtained the troubleshooting instructions stored there. Used an ohmmeter (most volt meters also have an ohmmeter) and tested all the electrical components one by one (thermostat, thermal fuse, heater coil - following the troubleshooting instructions provided with the dryer) and found that I didn't have any resistance across my heater element. Removed it and sure enough there was a break in the heater coil. Ordered a new heater element from PartSelect for less than $50 and replaced it myself. Saved myself a good bit of money repairing my dryer myself. It was very straight forward and easy. If you can follow easy to read instructions you can do it.

Replacing the part was easy: unscrew the old one from the front of the dryer after opening door, disconnect and replace with new one. Getting to it was a bit more difficult: Remove 6 screws from the back, 4 that hold the back of the top down and 2 that hold the control panel in place. You had to remove the control panel to free up the wiring bundle (held in place by a tie wrap inside the control panel housing) so you could move the top forwards enough. Then remove the top of the dryer by lifting the back up slightly and moving it forward to disconnect from attachments in the front and move aside to gain access to the switch.

I inserted the clip

Removed the back panel and saw that the idler pulley was worn out. It only took me 5min. To replace, it was very easy to replace.

Removed back panel of the dryer-reached my hand to the back of the motor shaft, put 7/16 wrench on it to hold the shaft while I removed the broken pulley with pliers. Very easy fix-the tech on Utube took the entire dryer apart totally unnecessary. If that is what the factory tells its tech"s to do its no wonder why the labor charge would be thru the roof.

Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent

Removed top panel in back of dryer. removed two hex head screws holding timer in place. Removed seven wires all color coded from timer, wires all are clip on for easy removal. Clipped wires to new timer and installed timer back in with the two hex head screws then replaced upper back panel. Plugged dryer back into electric socket. Job done.

First, I disconnected the power. Then, I removed the screws on the back access panel. Next, I removed the control knob. Then, I removed the screws holding the timer. Next, I removed the wires from the existing timer and placed them on the new timer. I replaced the timer, installed the screws, replaced the back access panel and the control knob. I reconnected the power and tested the unit and it worked great!

Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too short belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.