MGD5801TW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

The cycling thermostat was found to be not working when I checked it with a ohm meter. I ordered the part waited and installed it and it work just fine.

1 screw to replace.

Removed top panel in back of dryer. removed two hex head screws holding timer in place. Removed seven wires all color coded from timer, wires all are clip on for easy removal. Clipped wires to new timer and installed timer back in with the two hex head screws then replaced upper back panel. Plugged dryer back into electric socket. Job done.

After determining that the dryer motor was the issue, I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com website.

I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.

The correct part showed up in a timely manner and the pricing was very fair.

I disassembled the dryer, removed the old motor and reinstalled the new motor within about 30 minutes.

Key point was to read the instructions first and then reconnect the wiring to the new motor. The new motor has the switch install in a different spot on the motor so be careful to follow the instructions but, the instructions were very clear and connections were very simple.

I also did some preventive maintenance while I was in the unit by cleaning out any remaining lint from the heater unit and surrounding areas, that took about 30 minutes. Reassembling was a snap and I turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS! Total time of repair and cleaning was about an hour.

I had a load of laundry ready to go and put the new motor right to work. It has been non-stop drying and thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It has been a positive experience and I will tell others about the website if they have similar problems. Thanks again for a success story and dry clothing.

Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent

Had loud squealing prior knew rollers was going. Ordered repair kit that contained new belt , idle pully, and rollers. Knowing I had previously mended the door switch ordered a new to replace it. Unplugged and removed the dryer. Removed front lower panel, then the top and took the screws that held the front panel and door switch. Then I took the belt off and removed the drum. Removed the rear felt and cleaned the drum with fine mesh steel wool applied adehesive waited 5 mins and attached new felt. Then went to work cleaning the inside of the dryer with an air compressor. Rollers were next, poped the retainers and slide old ones off whiped the studs with a rag and put new ones on. Did the same with the belt tensioner pulley that came with the kit. Installed the new door switch and reassembled the dryer. Works great again, quiet etc. Easy fix and glad I ordered the kit.

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.

I've nothing to add to the techniques already described in the other narratives except that the dryer operated normally at first, but then after around 10 minutes the flame no longer cycled. I suspected a bad high limit thermostat since the valves seemed to be working. I ordered the replacement coils only because they were listed as the most common thing to fail. After replacing the T-Stat there was no change; I started checking things w/ a multimeter and found that all the T-Stats were closed. I should have done that at first. Anyway, since I had the new coils I decided to put them in. The dryer has workd perfectly ever since. Lesson to be learned: the coils may check ok when cold, but become inoperable after heating up a bit.

Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!

For the Ignitor - As involved as taking the dryer completely apart sounded, it was super easy. 1-take out the lint trap and remove the two screws there. 2-Pop open the top with a screw driver and swing the top completely over/back. 3- remove the two screws holding in the front panel and remove the panel. 4- loosen the belt by pushing on the tension roller under the drum on the right and remove the drum (its super light) use the belt as a handle. 5- remove the screw holding in the ignitor and replace it with the new one. Be careful to not touch the new ignitor. Then go backwards putting it back together.

1.Unplugged the connections to dryer door
2. Removed dryer door, front cabinet,popped off the drum belt (this is done by feel),unplugged the drum from cabinet, removed drum, all to get to the gas element inside at the bottom of dryer.
3. Unplugged the connection to the element, then removed unit to get to the burner parts.
4. Replaced the natural gas burner element with the LP gas element.
5. Re assembled dryer and tested.
*Note: Actually my son did the work while I read the very easy to follow directions. Since neither of us has disassembled a dryer before, the thought of taking a brand new dryer all apart was more daunting than the actual task.