MCG8000AWQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

Took the front off, took the shield off, replaced wheel and retainer clip. Replace wheel and reversed procedures. Easy as pie.

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Turn circuit breaker off, unplug for added safety. Use a medium flat head screwdriver and lift the top up. Use a nut driver to remove two screws holding the front panel to the frame. Remove the front panel and begin to dismantle the blower wheel. Remove the outer clamp from hte motor shaft, then the U-clip (inexpensive plier that has to pins to open the U-clip.... tricky little bugger). Pull the blower wheel off and replace with the new wheel. Reverse the proedure and your ready to go.

The new blower fan was made of molded plastic in which the hole internal diameter contained extra material

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

This is a very easy, no frills dryer to work on. Access to the blower by removing two screws holding the front panel. Blower fan held in place with a snap ring. Just recently replaced the drum rollers and shafts and the belt as well. It ran sweet for about a week and then an electric control on the motor went bad and it on;y can be replaced by buyig a new motor at $135.00. Some luck huh? Found a guy local selling a 8th month old Maytag of higher capacity and more bells and whistles for $150.00. It works great and my old Admiral uses many of the same parts so I'll have a supply of thermostats, rollers, etc., when the Maytag goes on the blink.

I pulled front off drier old wheel was easily removed because it was broke in half. New wheel fit tight and took a little effort to get new wheel installed. Installed retaining clamp to shaft and vacuumed out lint before putting front back on.

Lifted top lid of cabinet using putty knife to release clips then removed front panel. Removed drum from unit and set aside. Found that one of the drum support roller wheels had lost the rubber roller. Removed old roller and secured new one which was an easy fix.
Installing the drum belt was a bit more difficult as I had to do it alone. I threaded the belt through the pulley/control arm and held it taugt with one hand and then inched the belt around the drum while holding it in place with my knees. Took awhile but I got it secured. Would definitely help to remove one of the side panels of dryer or have someone assist you.

Released lid clips, two screws removed to remove the front. Took tension off of the belt by removing it from roller, then lifting tension spring from base. Removed drum to gain full access to motor. Lubricated rollers, vacuumed all areas to remove lint. Replaced motor and belt. Re-installed drum and re-attached tension spring, dryer face, and top. Works fantastic. Hard part was getting spring released and reattached due to location.

I opened up the dryer lifting the lid with a putty knife and removed the two screws holding the front. I reached in and removed the belt and removed the drum. I took my shop vac and cleaned all the lint, the door passage to the lint screen extremly full of hard lint. I tested the coils with my multi meter and they tested bad. I also did the test that was suggested by Part Select and again it showed the coils as bad. Once I received the parts about three days, it only took about twenty minutes to install using just a screw driver to replace the coils and the belt went on real easy with easy access to the tentioner. and my dryer now runs more quiet and dries the clothes in half the time it used to take. My belt was still in pretty good shape but I put a new one on since I had it apart any way. My friend had the same problem with his dryer and spent $300.00 for a repairman to do the same thing. I tried to tell him it is not rocket science and very easy to do yourself. Thank you Part Select for the good repair advice as well as the timely delivery of the parts.

My wife noticed a loud racket coming from the dryer. I took a look at it by opening the door and spinning the drum by hand and sure enough, the grinding, clunking noise continued. After a day of drying clothes, the noise got worse and then my wife said the clothes weren't getting dry at all. She could see the heating element glowing but the clothes would not dry. Sure enough, this was the case. While the dryer was turning, the outlet hose was still cold but the heater element was on. I went to the PartSelect site, entered the model number and looked at the common problems associated with noise. It said that the blower wheel was the second most likely issue. It also showed how to open the dryer and look for problem areas. First, unplug the dryer! Then, I took a putty knife (screwdriver would work - flathead) and pryed open the lid at each corner and opened the top. I then tilted the lid back against the wall to support the lid. There are two screws that hold the front panel of the dryer to the sides. They are on the inside of the cabinet up high near the top. I took these screws out and the front comes off by pulling the front panel away then up. There are three wires attached to a sensor on the front panel. I took a picture of these for reference and disconnected these wires to totally remove the panel. With the front panel off, I could see large clumps of lint trapped at the base of the filter screen. Now is a good time to vacuum this clean. Inside the cabinet at the bottom right, you can see the blower wheel. It was totally broken off the shaft that turned it. You can still spin the drum and see the shaft turn but the broken blower wheel would "clunk" around causing the noise. There are a small handfull of screws that hold the faceplate of the blower assembly on. Take these off and you will have full access to the blower wheel. DOn't worry about the wires on the sensor attached to the faceplate. If you want to take these off their clips, take a sharpie and write the color of wire each clip takes on the front of the faceplate for reference. The blower wheel is held on to the shaft by a circlip that is easily pushed off with a screwdriver or pliers and also a spring clip that is taken off with pliers by gripping the tabs with the pliers and squeezing the clip open. Save these two parts because the replacement wheel does not come with these pieces. I ordered the blower wheel, it was here in two days and replaced the wheel. Note: The wheel will take some effort to fully seat it on the shaft. You can take a hair dryer and warm the center of the wheel where the shaft will go thru to make the install easier. Do not use a hammer to beat the wheel onto the shaft or you will be ordering another wheel. I put my left hand behind the blower as support and pushed the wheel onto the shaft with my right hand and using a towel to cover the wheel center as padding. Reinstall the spring clip over the wheel shaft support and then pry the circlip back on the end of the shaft with pliers, reinstall the blower faceplate, reconnect any wires, reinstall the dryer front panel by first leaning the panel out and dropping the front panel onto the cabinet tabs at the bottom and then closing the front panel and screw it back down with the two screws. Reattach the three wires, close the lid, plug it in and your back in business. It took me longer to write this than it did to repair it. Good luck!

I took the back of my dryer off to see if the problem was there. I saw that the belt was broken and laying on the inside of the dryer. Took belt and went on line (Google) my KitchenAid Dryer from it's model number. The website was PartSelect. Found the belt I needed and saw a video on how to replace the belt. I called to order the belt and spoke to Steve, which help me with all my needs. Steve knew just the belt I was looking for and placed my order. The belt arrived a few days later. While I was waiting for the belt to come in, I removed the front of the dryer and get ready for reinstall. It took me about 15 minutes to install the belt and put the front of the dryer back together. I found PartSelect to be very helpful and saved me, maybe $150.00 by not having to call a serviceman to do the easy replacement. Thank you Steve and PartSelect, now I'm number 1 with the wife again.

Pull dryer out from wall about 6 to 8 inches step 1 - romove front/bottom access panel. Step 2 - remove lint trap and remove 2 screws (philips type) that is under lint trap door. Step 3 - push in 2 wood shime in front edge between lid and front panel (angled shims like door shims - a putty knife will work to, just be carful not to scratch finish) step 4 - fold lid upward and back (like on a hinge) step 5 - looking from where the bottom/front acces panel was losten 2 screws - one left one right about 3 turns - 9you can remove them it just makes it easier to reinstall the front panel. Step 6 - find appropriate pot or stacked 2 x 4 pieces - something to hold up the drum when you remove th front cover, and from underneeth support the drum. Step 7 - look thru bottm front access hole - there are 2 springs that come down from the door - and clip onto the frame of the fryer - unclip them and place on the side. Step 8 - remove 2 upper screws that hold front panel on, and remove front panel, if you left the bottom screws attached but loosened you have to lift up on the front panel a bit. Step 9 - looking from the bottom thru where access panel was - you will see motor on right with a additional roller (tensioner) - push upwards on tensioner to relieve pressure on motor and pop off belt (remember where tensioner is and how it clips in to base. Step 10 - work belt off of drum towars front - to remove it all the way you will have to lift up the drum slightly off of the pot or whatever you used for support so the belt can clear. Stem 11 - new belt goes on the same way you took to old one off - plat side away from drum with ribs against drum. Step 12 - again lift up on drum and work belt back on. Step 13 - tricky part is how to get the belt back on the motor - prentend you are threading a needle wht a folded over piece of thread - hold the belt with about a 4" loop with your left hand - hold up on tensioner and feed it back thru and work belt back over end of motor pulley, after front panel is back on with the 4 screws tightened spin the drum and make sure belt is between the 2 lines marked on the drum and remove the pot or whatever u used to prop up the drum. Dont forget to attach the springs for the door assemble all other components in reverse order. And dont forget to take the pot back out