MDET446AZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I couldn't find any information on the internet on how to fix my dryer, so I took every screw out of it, which I later found was not needed - just 2 in the front. Then I had to figure out WHERE the element was. Turns out, against the back panel with 2 screws. I had to crawl on my belly to get in there with little room to work. Installing the new one didn't take long at all though. I also vacuumed out the inside and cleaned it well, then put all the screws back in it.

I'm glad I re-did all the screws because now it sounds brand new. It's 3 times quieter than it ever was (it was donated to me), and it feels great that I was able to fix it on my own for about $50.

Un plug the dryer ***
Pulled the top portion of the dryer off
Used socket to undue two nuts to remove the front panel and unhooked the wires.
unscrewed 3 screws and took out the air duct assembly. Cleaned the dryer of all lint and replaced the air duct with a new one.
Reverse the process.

Searched Maytag.com and other sources, only partselect.com had what I needed. Three days after my purchase, our dryer lint screen was again fully functional.

First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

I first unplugged the dryer (don't want to get nailed with 240 volts). I then removed the two screws on the bottom section of the dryer just below the door. I then removed the two screws on the front door assembly and removed the door (make sure you don't break the wires and/or door switch. The wires need to be removed from the door switch prior to removing the door panel completely). I then took a flash light and look inside the dryer towards the back. I could see the heating element in the back. I then removed the two screws holding the heat element and removed the heating element (taking note on the orientation of the element). I then removed the black and orange wires making note which wire fit on which terminal. I then compared the old unit with the new unit to make sure I had the right one. I then assembled the new heating element (heat sensors etc.). I then hooked the black and orange wire to the new element. I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.

Note: I very CAREFULLY used the heating elements support connectors to hold the element in place while I started my screws. Once they were started then I could release the element and fit it properly into the housing as I tightened the screws.

The other thing that you need to check is to make sure that the air-duct is not blocked. If you have a lot of lent on the bottom of the dyer (inside) then you could have a blocked air-duct. This happened to me. I went outside and noticed that we have a door on our vent that flips up to keep mice etc. from coming in. Some of the lint that was blown out got wet from the sprinklers and calcified underneath the vent. This was preventing the vent from opening. This could of been our problem all along but I had already replaced the heating element so I keep it as is.

PartSelect was wonderful. I was able to find my parts quickly and the turn around time was tremendous. I would buy from PartSelect again.

Unscrew 3 screws at the top of the dryer. Remove face plate and discounted 6 leads connecting them to the new control board as you take them from the old one.

Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.

removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

This was the second time we lost the High Limit Thermal Fuse. My wife dried some new towels and the lint filter completely plugged before the cycle was done and popped the high limit fuse. I went throught this before and paid a fortune for a repairman and ended up installing the thermal fuse myself so I did it myself and saved about $100. I also ordered an element kit so I have it. I will just swap out element units if there is a next time. Maybe the next time we buy new towels. It only takes few minutes to remove the front lower panel and unplug two wires, remove two screws and the element assembly with both the fuse and the thermostat are out. It is easy to replace the fuse with the element assembly in your hands and in good light.

Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-
Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel.
Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate size 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.
Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.
Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!
Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

I opened the front panel and removed the heating element from the rear of the dryer by removing the two screws that held it in place, and slid the element out. using a mulitester I checked the High limit Fuse and it was not working.I ordered the part and replaced it. Everything worked great for two days and the dryer stopped heating again. My brother asked if I had replaced the thermostat because something burned out the fuse. He was right. I ordered both parts and replaced them. Every thing is working just fine. Save some money and time by replacing both parts at the same time.

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.