HYE3657AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Checked the voltage to the high limit switch. Found that the element was bad. Ordered the part from partselect.com. and received the part in two days. Unplugged the unit, pulled the lid on the dryer, used the 5/16" nutdriver, removed 3 or 4 screws, pulled out the old and installed the new. Saved a $100.00 service call from the repair man! Novice in home improvement can do this. Thank you Partselect!!!

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

The new blower fan was made of molded plastic in which the hole internal diameter contained extra material

I pulled front off drier old wheel was easily removed because it was broke in half. New wheel fit tight and took a little effort to get new wheel installed. Installed retaining clamp to shaft and vacuumed out lint before putting front back on.

Turn circuit breaker off, unplug for added safety. Use a medium flat head screwdriver and lift the top up. Use a nut driver to remove two screws holding the front panel to the frame. Remove the front panel and begin to dismantle the blower wheel. Remove the outer clamp from hte motor shaft, then the U-clip (inexpensive plier that has to pins to open the U-clip.... tricky little bugger). Pull the blower wheel off and replace with the new wheel. Reverse the proedure and your ready to go.

Took the front off, took the shield off, replaced wheel and retainer clip. Replace wheel and reversed procedures. Easy as pie.

I took apart the dryer by unscrewing the top and the front, front comes off by just undoing the two top screws on the inside. I figured it was something to do with the rollers since the noise was ciclycal. The hardest part was to put the drive belt back on. It helps to have a second person for about 5 minutes.

Vacuum out the dryer vent & trap of all the tenant's sleeping bag stuffing, intall the new lint trap and Voila! It works again.

It just pushed on and clicked

This is a very easy, no frills dryer to work on. Access to the blower by removing two screws holding the front panel. Blower fan held in place with a snap ring. Just recently replaced the drum rollers and shafts and the belt as well. It ran sweet for about a week and then an electric control on the motor went bad and it on;y can be replaced by buyig a new motor at $135.00. Some luck huh? Found a guy local selling a 8th month old Maytag of higher capacity and more bells and whistles for $150.00. It works great and my old Admiral uses many of the same parts so I'll have a supply of thermostats, rollers, etc., when the Maytag goes on the blink.

Released lid clips, two screws removed to remove the front. Took tension off of the belt by removing it from roller, then lifting tension spring from base. Removed drum to gain full access to motor. Lubricated rollers, vacuumed all areas to remove lint. Replaced motor and belt. Re-installed drum and re-attached tension spring, dryer face, and top. Works fantastic. Hard part was getting spring released and reattached due to location.

Lifted top lid of cabinet using putty knife to release clips then removed front panel. Removed drum from unit and set aside. Found that one of the drum support roller wheels had lost the rubber roller. Removed old roller and secured new one which was an easy fix.
Installing the drum belt was a bit more difficult as I had to do it alone. I threaded the belt through the pulley/control arm and held it taugt with one hand and then inched the belt around the drum while holding it in place with my knees. Took awhile but I got it secured. Would definitely help to remove one of the side panels of dryer or have someone assist you.

I yanked up the front of the lid, the broken belt laid across the drum like a dead snake. Pulled that out, then removed the two screws holding the front. Using the pliers, pulled off the two wires snapped to the door switch.
Lifted out the front panel, and lifted the drum, (added a bit of a yank to get it out of the two rollers in the back).
Vacuumed out the dust and dead bugs, then tried to figure out how to thread the belt on the idler and motor. (This was the hardest part) the picture that shows the parts is an exploded view, and does not show the way that it goes together. After about half an hour, I asked for help, and we found a slight rubbing on the idler and figured out that the tensioning spring pulls on the lower part of the idler arm, not the top. Putting the belt on, and getting the spring into the hole in the base was tricky, but not hard. Reassembly was straightforward, and took less than 5 minutes. (put in the drum with the belt on it, hook the belt on the motor and idler, push the rear of the drum into the rollers, then put on the front panel, re-attach the door switch, and the two screws holding the front, and close the lid).

Pry up front of top and lay back. Remove two 1/4" srews at top corners. The front of dryer will then swing to the right. The drumb will lift out easily. Remove broken belt. Inspect the drum rollers on the back wall. Replace if loose or not turning. Mine needed replacement. The assembly part is not easy. You need the drum in place and after it is in place you can't get the belt on. After 8 tries I got smart and made a prop to hold the idler pully up, then put the belt in place and let the pully down slowly. It worked! Put the front back on and the 2 screws and pop the top back down. Also it is a good idea to unplug the electric cord and turn off the gas (if app).

Dont go in through the back!! Take the top off then the obvious steps to get to the drum and belt. On the kitchen aid model at least I would advise to make all the hassel of replacing the belt well worth your time to go ahead and buy a new tension pulley with the wheel on it as opposed to the all metal tension pulley. My dryer is much more quiet now and seems to be more efficient.

I waited a two days to get my belt then deciced to get a new tension pulley. Ordered it one day and the next it was at my door. This was well worth my time and effort. Thanks PartSelect!!