MGD7230HC3 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

Dropped new filter in.

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Seemed daunting but pull the front off and the drum is basically just perched inside on some rollers. You have to pull it out to really reach in and wrap the 96”+ band around it and to motor and don’t forget to tension it with tension pulley if you don’t see that if your belt broke!
Another bonus is after 10 years I got to remove the softball size fur ball rolling in the squirrel cage fan , big help on air flow!!!

I took off the back panel off the dryer. The idler pulley could be accessed on the bottom. It was a bit cramped but not too tough to replace.

With the instructional video the repair was very easy.

I removed the top first followed along with removing the side bracket that holds the circuit board. I then proceeded with removing the bottom cover and front panel. I disconnected the front panel from the control board and was able to slide the front panel upward. The door and blower housing was a bit tricky to pull out without thinking I was damaging something. I then replaced all the seals and cleaned the dryer after removing the drum and belt. I also replaced the drum support rollers. Afterwards I put everything back together and had an "E1" error and I pulled the thermostat out and wiped it down from all the lint and dryer worked perfect after that. Dryer takes the right amount of time to day clothes and no more rumbling noise. The instructions videos were VERY helpful.

Disassemble top and front of dryer removed drum. R2 pulley and belt. Cleaned and reassemble front door ops checked working order of machine . Replaced top. I thank you wife is happy.

Took back panel off, and it was really easy putting the new idler pulley in.

It was a lot easier then I thought. Just watch the tutorial of how to fix it on this website and you wont have a problem.