MED7230HW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Michael from OREGON CITY, OR
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Dry was making a loud squeaking noise.
Just watch YouTube videos. They show you how step by step. Easy to install. Clean all the dust out while dryer is apart if you can with a vacuum.
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- Customer:
- Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Parts Used:
- 72017
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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- Customer:
- William from Pontiac, MO
- Parts Used:
- 280114
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Rear dryer drum seal came out
Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.
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- Customer:
- Joyce from Holbrook, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8577274
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
When using the dryer the cycle would stop and display E1 as the reason
Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.
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- Customer:
- Evan from NORTHRIDGE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
squeaking sound due to worn out bearing idler pulley wheel.
BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE UNPLUG THE POWER AND TURN OFF THE GAS SUPPLY 1. unscrew the 3 nut screws at the back to remove the cover lid. 2. pull the control console cable from the electronic board. (only 3 wires on it).3. unscrew the 2 nut screws of the control console then remove it by pulling up.4. unscrew the 5 screws to remove the door. (pull little up to unhinged then remove). 6. unscrew the 5 nut screws to remove the lower siding. 7. unscrew the copper 4 nut screws then remove the lint suction fixture 8. unscrew the 4 nut screws to remove door fixture ,then just lay next to the machine.(the wires are long enough so you don't need to unplug and separate it from the machine.9. remove the belt by pulling the idler pulley towards the motor pulley (against the tension spring) 10. remove the drum by lifting a little bit upward. 11. remove the plastic triangular lock using a small screw driver then remove the idler pulley wheel then install the replacement. (clean your machine using a vacuum cleaner and remove all the lints). 12. install back the drum, be sure to set the drum belt to the right position. (groove on drum side). 13. install back the belt to the pulley the same procedure as to remove it. 14. assemble back what you have removed. end.
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No heat
Remove backing very easy (approximately 12 8mm screws).
Thermostat on left side facing the back. 2 8mm screws . Thermal fuse slightly further towards front of dryer but still accessible (caution longer arms needed). Unscrew first them release safety clamps
to unplug (be gentle have patience). Place all back same as removed and it worked!!
Thermostat on left side facing the back. 2 8mm screws . Thermal fuse slightly further towards front of dryer but still accessible (caution longer arms needed). Unscrew first them release safety clamps
to unplug (be gentle have patience). Place all back same as removed and it worked!!
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- Customer:
- Peter from HUEYTOWN, AL
- Parts Used:
- W10837240
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Idler pulley wore out
Removed the back panel and saw that the idler pulley was worn out. It only took me 5min. To replace, it was very easy to replace.
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- Customer:
- Mike from INOLA, OK
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken belt. Broken idle pully and replace 4 rollers
By watching the video it made the job much easier than I thought it would be. I was very pleased with the speedy delivery of the Dryer kit I had ordered. I had called a local repair facility and they wanted twice as much for the same parts.
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- Customer:
- stephen from langley, KY
- Parts Used:
- W10120998
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
gasket came off lent filter
i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.
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- Customer:
- James from KENNESAW, GA
- Parts Used:
- 4392067
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My dryer made squeaking noise when rotating.
I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.
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- Customer:
- Chris from Valley Stream, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11226088
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lens melted because paper got behind the lens and was heated by the lamp.
1 screw to replace.
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- Customer:
- Ken from LOMBARD, IL
- Parts Used:
- 661570
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken Belt
Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent
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- Customer:
- Mark from PELHAM, MA
- Parts Used:
- W10837625
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Broken Motor Pulley
Removed back panel of the dryer-reached my hand to the back of the motor shaft, put 7/16 wrench on it to hold the shaft while I removed the broken pulley with pliers. Very easy fix-the tech on Utube took the entire dryer apart totally unnecessary. If that is what the factory tells its tech"s to do its no wonder why the labor charge would be thru the roof.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Edgartown, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP3387911
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
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- Customer:
- William from TROY, AL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10512946, WPW10359272, WPW10314173
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Drum support roller making very loud noise
had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller
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