MED6630HC1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.

I simply followed the video and apart from a couple of areas that were not relevant to my model, everything went exactly as illustrated. The video is excellent and made the repair so easy.

The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back and two in the front.

A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.

It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller

Replaced the heating element. Took the front lower panel off, 2 screws one on each end, removed cover on left side over blower 3 screws and removed cover lower right side over heating element 2 screws. Removed 6 wires plugged into heating element cover, turned heater element cover counter clockwise and pulled out. Removed 1 screw holding heating element inside of cover, pulled out heating element. Replaced heating element back in cover putting screw back in to hold it. Put heating element and cover into hole in back of dryer turning clockwise to secure. Then put cover holding heating element over the front of it and secured with 2 screws. Put blower cover back secured with the 3 screws and put the front cover back on securing with 2 screws. dryer is heating better than ever.

Replaced power cord, terminal block, and all melted wiring. Checked the thermal fuse for zero resistance.

Ordered $245 worth of parts for four possible fixes. None of the four fixes worked. Used an appliance repair person to do more troubleshooting. Fourteen days later and after spending an additional $380 ($625 total), a new control panel was installed. That solved the problem.

Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Watched instructions, Ordered the kit and repair was fairly easy until the time to line up the cover over the fan wheel. That was difficult part. Would be best to have two people at this point to hold it and align the screw holes. Otherwise its was a fairly easy operation.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.

Doing my home work, I was told if I was "handy with my hands" I could do the work. Start to finish required 3+ hours. The instructions were not specific to my unit therefore, I had to "guess". My first surprise was encountered on step 2 - removing the top. My top was attached to the "brains" of the drier and therefore could not be removed. I actually had to disconnect the brains to remove the top. My second surprise was that I had to remove just about everything before I could get to the vent, which by the way, was simple. I finally accomplished the task, but....

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.

Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pulley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.