MED5630HC1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Lint can build up inside the dryer, and can cause a fire in EXTREME cases. If your model has a back panel that exposes the entire chute, this job is much easier. Unscrew the chute from the machine to remove it. Inspect and clean all the lint out, especially the bottom, next to the fan blower. The other version machine has a panel at the top that is welded on. Remove the two screws at the top corner of the rear bulkhead, where the chute is. Gently pull this inner panel away to free the top of the chute from the rear top panel. Then pull the chute down and out. Follow the reverse to complete the job.

Followed online video very easy and dryer works like new one....

I removed the top first followed along with removing the side bracket that holds the circuit board. I then proceeded with removing the bottom cover and front panel. I disconnected the front panel from the control board and was able to slide the front panel upward. The door and blower housing was a bit tricky to pull out without thinking I was damaging something. I then replaced all the seals and cleaned the dryer after removing the drum and belt. I also replaced the drum support rollers. Afterwards I put everything back together and had an "E1" error and I pulled the thermostat out and wiped it down from all the lint and dryer worked perfect after that. Dryer takes the right amount of time to day clothes and no more rumbling noise. The instructions videos were VERY helpful.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Followed the instructions all went good except for the sliding the shield back in it didn't want to go back in but it does fit. Dryer works like new again.

Remove top,front and panels.change thermal fuse and outlet thermistor.

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Followed your video for replacing the Tension Pulley, Drum Belt and Drum Rollers. Models were not exact, but instructions were very clear and detailed enough for a "computer geek" to do the repair myself (with some help from my wonderful wife). Live in Ohio, parts came from Kentucky and I had them the next day! The dryer is almost 10 years old. Running great now. Thank You!

First I unpluged the dryer from the electical power. I removed the 2 screws holding the bottom front panel. Then I saved a bit of time and effort. Instead of removing the bracket and pulling the whole unit out, I bent the metal plate in front of the heating element toward me. I unpluged the 2 wires from the plastic casing and removed the screw holding the heating element in place. Next I pulled out the old part and pluged in the new one then connected it in reverse order and bent the plate back up to protect the element. This was a very easy and inexpensive way to fix the dryer like new again. The hardest part was vacuuming and cleaning the bottom of the dryer. There was seven years of lint build up under there.

Removed front panel located hearter elemement houseing
removed screw securing houseing to dryer chasis, disconected wireing harness- be carefull here there are three lines two for the thermostat and one for the element- you only need to disconect the one nearest the front of the unit, reove the screw holding the element to the houseing it sits in and pull out. instalation is reverse the directions to remove

unplugged the dryer and removed collapsable vent then we laid it on its back. took off the lower front face with a screwdriver ( just inserted in upper margin and it popped off) then removed a couple of screws and put the new element in replaced the screws and we cleaned all the old dust and lint from in the cabinet and replaced the front face. no problems.

Removed the screws holding the front cover, Removed the screws holing the heating element bracket, pulled the heating element housing out, unplugged element and removed old element. Very easy to install. The exploded pictures on website really help.

Followed instructions for standard blower wheel replacement and repair kit installation, which were straight forward. The only real issue I ran into was removing the blower wheel, The instructions say to turn it clockwise and remove it, however this wheel had been on there for a long time and it also has a taper shoulder so it was not coming off without a fight which is why the dremel tool is listed. I had to cut the old bower wheel out in pieces so I could remove the electric motor, which was easy. Once out and on the bench and only the metal hub left on the shaft a 7/16" wrench and large vise-grips got it to break loose. The good side of this is it allowed me to blow out any lint that had built up on the motor, like new again.

followed the video