MDG6700AWM Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The repair was pretty easy to install the heat element, but had to replace several other parts do to the manufacturer that had broke off

I verified that the thermistor was bad by testing the resistance. My manual said it should be 10K ohms at 78F. I was reading over 30K ohms. This is what caused the thermostat to blow, as the thermistor was telling the dryer the air temp was a good 30 degrees cooler than it actually was. You can also verify the thermostat is bad by checking it for continuity. I removed the screws on the top-back of the dryer and slid the top back to reveal the screws holding on the control panel. I removed those and popped off the control panel. It required a good bit of force. I then removed the four screws holding the front piece on and removed it by pulling it slightly towards me and up. The parts are located on the bottom right. They were underneath a black plastic flap on my dryer. I removed the cables and the took both parts out with a screwdriver. I replaced them with the new ones (they should only fit in the right slot) and reattached the cables. From there, reassemble in reverse of the disassembly.

Took the top back screws off (2) then pulled the top toward me and it came off. This left four screws that hold on the front control panel. I took out this four screws, which the control panel came out. You will then have to disconnect the door switch. Then I took off the front door, which which has two screws. Then I took the four screws out of the front panel,which are all on the top below the front control panel. You then have to pull up on the front panel to lift it up, it is sitting on two slots. This will give you excess to the heater. There will be one screw take it out and the heater will pull out also there will be six wires that you will have to disconnect so pay attention where they go (write it down.) You will have thermostat 2 and 3 and heater switch. Test them with a ohmmeter, my thermostat 3 was bad. There will be two screws to take out to replace the part. Put the wires back and put the dryer back together like you took it apart.

The kit gave me parts for two different styles of gas valve and told me what to look for to identify one from the other. Very easy conversion.

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

The Maytag dryer had a removable front panel so it took only about 15 minutes to remove the front, replace the blocking plug and orifice and reinstall the front panel. I gave the repair time as 30-60 minutes since I took the time to vacuum the interior and clean the flame sensor. Great instructions were included with the kit.

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

Followed the easy to understand how to video. The drier was up and heating again in less then 30 minutes.

Unplugged the dryer and moved into clear working space. Removed back access panel and exhaust tube, they are connected. Noted the wire connection placement before removing all wires connected to heating element. Removed the one hidden screw securing the element in the very back, cant be seen remove by feel. Then with some force sliding forward removed the heating element. Dissembled heating element housing to revel burned out element, noted wire connections before unplugging and removing old element. Reassembled all parts as they were removed and starting using the dryer.

You know! I forgot exactly where it was i got the info to fix the problem but, "Parts select" was mentioned. Once I had an idea as to what to do I then, wasted time around town looking for the parts with no results. I then did what I should have at first an ordered the parts from Parts select. got them in the mail, lightning quick! I think I may have found the info here as well,not sure. (this site is awesome None the less) but the info led me to the Thermostat, I then jumped it as indicated and wham!! it ran. Order both the thermostat and thermistor. only problem I ran into was, removing the front display panel. broke some of the retaining clips off in the process. all in all, it was an easy fix that saved me a bunch of dough. greatfull to parts select for a speedy deliverie and to the website that made it possible. think it may have been here at the free repair help, section. awesome and highly recommended thanks!!!

Dryer was real easy to get into, there are two 1/4" screws on top back of dryer that you can take out to take off the top. The elec. control board is on the left front of mach. it takes about 2 or 3 mins. to take out with a screw driver. I suggest that you go ahead and pull front of dryer off and clean it out if possible as the inside of mine was full of lent. There are only 4 or 5 screws holding the front on, the door will come off with front cover. It is also very easy to check all the sensors and the heating element if you have a multi meter. I hope this will help Oscar

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

This was a simple repair. Removed the small access panel where the vent pipe comes through, the roller is right there. Unscrewed the support roller bolt, looking for all the pieces that had broken and fallen inside the housing of the dryer. Using the washers and nut from the old one, put the new roller in place, be aware that you have to lift the drum a little bit to get this new roller in. It could take two people depending on your strength. Tightened down the roller, spin the drum by hand to make sure it was ok, then put the access panel back on and fired it up for a test run.