MDG6800AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.

The YouTube video on how to replace the baffels was excellent. After watching the video, it was a piece of cake.

The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.

Inherited an older Maytag natural gas dryer that was not heating . Just heated at start then would not after 5 mins or so. Went to Partselect site and it had a troubleshooting section and read and narrowed down the part needed by ohming the coils. Ordered the coils for less than $20 and ordered a natural gas to propane conversion kit. Parts arrived in 2 days on regular shipping, very quick! Instruction were very simple to follow and coils were installed in under 15 mins. Propane conversion kit was perfect and was installed in 30 mins and dryer ran just like new. Cleaned inside thoroughly and couldn't be happier. Thank you partselect for great service and saving what would have been more than a $300 service call. Did myself for under $50. I highly recommend this site and will use when ever I can!!! Great service, great way to do business!!!

Took off the front, took thd drum off, removed old belt, placed on new belt ptu everything back together.

Replaced coils on gas valve.

After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

This problem was the result of a lighting strike that actaully happened a year ago. The dryer still worked but there was a special routine to get it to start. It finally would not start at all and i assumed and ordered the control unit and it arrived the next day. It took just about five minutes to install, just remove to the old board and disconnect the plug-ins and tighten a few screws, much easier and less expensive than calling a service technician

I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.

Save the money and buy the part with partselect. My dryer problem was obvious. Before I purchased the part I jumped on YOUtube to see if there was a repair video that matched my problem. FRIELINK5 had a very thorough video. This guy did it with one hand and overall it looked easy. Then I ordered the part. When it arrived I gathered all of the tools first. Rewatched the youtube video, then installed the part. I recommend going through parts select problem determination if you do not know what is wrong. Follow the instructions and purchase the part. I saved probably over $125. House call 50$ + Labor and part $100 from a service call. TRY IT save money.

I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.

The repair was very simple.I removed the door and the front cover.Right in front of the blower housing sat the temperature control thermistor.All that was needed to do the swap was a nut driver.Everything I read said the high limit thermostat may of been bad but it was fine.Ordering the parts was easy and fast all I needed was the model number and all the charts and numbers were easy to find.Thank you Parts select..

This should have been a simple repair, but turned out to be time consuming and moderately difficult. I hope these instructions will help anyone who encounters the problems described here.

After a period of the dryer not being used, the idler pulley wheel froze on the shaft of the idler pulley arm, so I needed to replace both parts. After mounting the new wheel and two washers on the new arm and securing with a retaining ring, I went to install this assembly by going in through the small access panel at the rear of the dryer. I slid the belt off the old idler pulley wheel and unhooked the spring from the idler pulley arm; the arm was mounted on a sleeve fastened to the motor bracket by one screw. All that should have been necessary was to back out that screw and replace the old idler pulley assembly with the new one.

That is where the trouble started. Backing out the screw with a socket driver, I found it would go a few turns, then start to bind. I tried turning it in and out to get the threads to engage, but it kept binding. Eventually I gave the screw a hard turn, and then it would turn freely but not move in or out.

Looking on the internet for advice, I found a video that asserts for another model Maytag dryer using the same type of mounting for the idler arm, that there is a design flaw. You can find the video by searching for “Maytag dryer idler pulley defect”. According to the video, the sheet metal screw used to mount the idler pulley arm can gradually loosen due to the pressure and vibration, and begins to “waggle” which eventually damages the threads. I believe this is what happened to my dryer. The video suggests replacing the sheet metal screw with a machine screw and nut for a more durable union.

So now I understood how the screw could be stripped just sitting in the dryer, but that didn’t help me get the screw out. Working through the rear access panel, I tried pulling on the screw head with several types of pliers, pushing the point from behind with a piece of wood while turning the head with a socket driver; eventually I was able to use a pry bar under the screw head and sleeve to apply pressure while turning the head, and with that method the screw backed out. With the screw removed, it could be seen that the threads in the middle part of the thread length were almost completely worn away.

The screw sleeve got somewhat deformed in this process so I ordered a new one, along with an exact replacement sheet metal screw, hoping the threads in the hole were still intact. With the old idler pulley arm now removed, I could transfer the old idler bracket spacer to the new idler pulley arm. When the ordered parts arrived and I tried to mount the idler pulley arm, the new screw would go in only a couple of turns before binding. Rather than risk winding up in the same situation by forcing the screw, I decided to use a machine screw and nut instead.

The original sheet metal screw was a #10. A machine screw the same size would not fit through the hole, and I could not fit my drill into the dryer cabinet in a position to enlarge the hole, so I used a #8 machine screw with a nut and lock washer. First I put some grease on the contact areas of the screw sleeve and idler bracket spacer, then inserted the machine screw through the hole and put the lock washer and nut on the other side of the mounting. The space around the nut is very limited, and most of my tools were too large to hold the nut while the screw was tightened. It was too small for a socket or adjustable wrench, and the clearance from the exhaust duct was too small for the handles of most tools. Eventually, I found a needle nose pliers with short handles that did the job. A thin open end wrench might also work. Then I reconnected the spring and belt to the idler pulley assembly, and closed the access panel. So far the dryer works, but if the #8 screw turns out to be not strong enough, I could get an extension for my drill and enlarge the hole to fit a #10 machine screw and nut.

Looking back on the job, the most difficult part of this repair was removing the damaged screw. This and several other steps might have been a lot easier if I had removed the motor bracket (where the idler pulley arm is mounted) from the dryer and worked outside the cabinet. Part Select has an excellent video “Replacing the Drive Motor” that shows how to do this. It would be a lot of disassembly work, but for someone with good assembly skills could be easier in the long run.

Hopefully most folks out there who replace the idler pulley arm on a dryer will find an easier situation than I did. But for any who have to deal with a stripped mounting screw, I hope this summary will help you resolve it.

This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.

My gas dryer would run with heat for 5 minutes in all settings, but kick off and not heat again. Timer would not advance in autodry. Thought it was the cycling thermostat, so replaced that, but did not solve the issue. Ordered the coils, and cleaned out heavily clogged lint from bottom of lint trap, especially right above the fan motor at the bottom of the trap. Received the coils, opened the top and front, took out drum, and replaced the coils. The replacement took less than 2 minutes. Be careful putting the drum back on to make sure the felt is not caught inside the drum. You can give it a spin to make sure. Wear gloves, as I cut myself up pretty good on the edges of the dryer body. The inside of my dryer looks like a crime scene! Anyway, I put it back together, and it runs great. Solved the timer advance issue in autodry, and the heat kicks on and off when it is supposed to. Good luck! Thanks Part Select!