YE20HA2 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

Watched a video and went to town taking it apart. I stuck a pop can under the barrel to hold it up while I worked on pulleys. My dryer does not have a plastic pulley but a metal tension bar with a hole in the middle. Ran upstairs and watched a different video with my set up and all was good. 5 min of work 5 min watching Youtube and 5 min cleaning all the lint out of the machine. I am actually glad the old belt broke because some of the lint was in a clump and had scorch marks on it. I took the shop vac to every part of the cabinet and shoved it down the lint trap sleeve also.

Watched the video on the site and it was spot-on! Super-easy, took like 10 minutes to replace the belt. Thanks!

Took two screws out of the Lint tray on top. remove to bolts from under hood then put new belt on. Always make sure there are no twists in belt when put back on

Disconnect power. Removed front panel and lifted top. Removed belt around spring pully and motor assembly. Carefully eased belt around back of drum and gasket. Reverse process.

This Was pretty simple, removed the old broken screen. There are two torque screws on the outside where the bottom of the door is, I removed them so I could move the screen on the inside so I could clean out the excess lint. vacuumed out the lint, tightened the screws back in and slid the new screen in and it was done.

I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Removed broken filter, used screwdriver to clear out some old lint in the intake and inserted new filter. New filter fits and works as described.

Buy the part the site provide a video on how to do it and was very helpful thanks

Needed a belt. Only snag was for me was re-installing front panel (door)

Raise the top and then remove two screws to remove front. Once the front was removed on this Maytag model it was not necessary to remove the dryer drum. I simply lifted the drum slightly and slid the belt around the drum to position the belt. I then pressed the tension arm toward the drum and fed the belt around the drive pulley and tension pulley. I spun the drum a few turns by hand to insure that the belt was aligned properly. Then replaced the front cover and the top. Turned on the dryer to test and job was completed. Thanks to your video and prompt parts delivery the job was a snap. My wife didn't even have time to get mad.

Tools and materials:

#2 Philips head screw driver
Standard flat-tip screw driver
1/4" nut driver or ratchet
1/4" drive sockets: 1/4, 5/16
Something 3-4 inches thick to wedge under drum for support (i.e. scrap 4x4, soap bottle, books)

Replacement Procedures:

1. Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2. Pull out lint screen
3. Remove 2 Philips screws attaching lint trap to dryer top
4. Lift hinged dryer top panel near front and lean it back on wall. You may need to pry between side panels and top with flat-tip screw driver to get it started.
5. Disconnect plug from dryer door switch near front
6. Remove two 1/4" and two 5/16" hex screws inside front panel near top.
7. Open dryer door and lift front panel straight up to disengage tabs from slots near bottom of front panel.
8. While supporting drum with one hand, lift front panel and set aside with other hand.
9. Slip replacement belt around drum with ribs facing drum and position it where old belt left its mark.
10. Wedge something under drum to support it while installing the belt.
11. Re-position tensioner in two slots in bottom panel just in front of motor. On my model the bend in the spring will be on the right side with the idler pulley to the left, when viewed from the front.
12. Ensuring the belt isn't twisted, thread a small loop of it through the opening in the tensioner just below the pulley.
13. With the left hand, push against the tensioner spring while working the loop over the drive pulley.
14. While supporting drum with one hand, remove whatever you put under the drum to support it.
15. Replace front panel by aligning the slots with the tabs near the bottom and lowering it into place.
16. Carefully slip the drum opening over the flange on the front panel and replace hex screws.
17. Slowly roll the drum in one direction or the other until the belt aligns and centers itself.
18. Re-connect the plug for the dryer door switch.
19. Lower the dryer top and press until it snaps back into place.
20. Replace philips screws to secure lint trap and replace lint screen.
21. Plug dryer back into wall outlet, close door, set to dry, and press start.

Once I realized it was just a drum belt and how easy it was to fix, I ordered the belt myself with no help from a national warehouse hardware chain where the manager said "I don't have a belt but I can sell you a dryer." Thank you I kept my 300+ dollars and once I got the belt it only required removing the two screws that sealed the lint screen cannel to the top; popping the top, removing the to nutbolts fastening the front to the side panels; slidding the front panel out; putting the belt around the drum and attaching it properly to the tension pully and motor. Finally, I closed it up and tested it. Household hero in less than 12 minutes! Not bad for a psychologist, eh?

Remove broken lint filter, stick in new filter. Couldn't be easier.

Before ordering the part, I found this website by linking from a video on YouTube where several people showed how they did it. Simply two screws in the lint removel chute and pushed in the two clips holding the top and two inside screws holding the front panel. Held the machine tilted back onto a table and placed two 4" wooden cubes underneath it so it wouldn't come forward and one more 4" cube under the drum. After cleaning out the inside, I slipped the new belt around the drum (ribbed side down) and taped it in place with a couple of pieces of painter's tape temporarily. Hooked the idler wheel guide and looped the belt in it. Tested movement by spinning it by hand to check alignment and removed tape. Reassembled the front, side and top panels accordingly and tested it. Voila! This was my first attempt and I saved myself some bucks. The last repair was done by Se•rs and their service person took my credit card number for the invoice and promptly went out and charged over $3,000 on it. He was eventually caught. Great incentive to do yourself, huh?