YE20HN3 Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

Received the replacement filter which was an exact duplicate of the 22 year old filter. Took the old one out; slid the new one in and got ready for another 22 years of use. At 86 years of age I probably won't be around to see the new filter wear out. The dryer has already outlasted the place where I purchased it - Montgomery Wards! They just don't make stuff to last like this anymore.

Looked up dryer by serial number on the internet. Watched the video on the website very easy installation. Ordered the part it came in within 2 days. Opened the top of the dryer with a 10 in one tool (like a putty knife). Took out the out defective parts by unscrewing the thermostat took wires off the old part and put them on the new part not to confuse wires. Did the same with the heater element installed the new parts. Very simple. If I had to call a repair person it would have cost 3 times as much as the part alone.

the video was very well done and able to understand. disconnect power ,remove lint trap,remove 2 phillps head screws, push putty knife in front seam line about 1'' in from corners to release top assembly ,lift up and support, disconnect wire connector ,remove 1 screw in each front corner lift front panel off while holding drum, remove broken belt,install new belt with grooves against drum ,feed around tensioner pulley and onto motor shaft pulley ,spin drum by hand to make sure belt tracking etc. reassembly in reverse.

Easy repair and I am not the handyman type. Unplug the unit. Lift the top. Remove 2 wires from temperature sensor and remove single screw to lift out the plate the sensor is mounted to(Easier to change the sensor out this way). Remove 2 wires from heating element and then remove single screw. Lift out heating element and replace with new one. Screw back in and reattach 2 wires. Remove 2 screws on the plate for the temeperature sensor and replace with the new sensor. Once 2 screws are back in the plate holding the sensor, screw back in with single screw and attach 2 wires. I called a tech and they wanted $125 just to look at the unit. When I read other reviews of how easy this repair was, I thought it was worth a try. Definitely saved us a bunch of money and time.

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem

1.Removed retaining clips,washers,spacer,and cylinder rollers
2.Removed and replaced support assembly
3.Installed spacer
4.Installed cylinder roller assembly
5.Installed washers and retaining clips
This is my second time ordering parts from PartSelect and I am amazed how fast I recieve my orders, which minimizes the downtime of an appliance that's frequently used.

After reading everyone else's comments I started by pulling out the dryer, unplugging the power and exhaust. Next moved the dryer to an area where I had room to lay it on the back. Then using a flat blade screw driver, I popped the top attached tape to the top so I could lean back the top without having to hold it. Removed the two screws from the front panel and removed the door safety shut off before removed the front panel. Then I layed the dryer on its back. Then reached under the drum, pushed the belt tensioner toward the motor puller to release the tension on the belt. Then slid the belt to the base. Pulled the drum up and out of the cabinet. Next I cleaned all the lint and crud out of the dryer components. To remove the clips that hold the rollers in place, I use 2 small flat blade screw drivers. These are inserted at the back side of the horse show shaped clip between the shaft and the clip. When the two screw drivers are rotated like turning a screw they slide the clip out. Next I used a socket wrench with a #8 metric socket(I didn't have the sae size) and removed the screws holding the drum roller brackets. I simply reversed the procedure to install the new rollers. Since the dryer was on its back, when I put the drum back in, its own weight slipped it in place. Then pulled the belt around the drum and between the motor pulley and the belt tensioner. Holding the belt with one hand, I used the other hand to pushed the belt tensioner in and positioned the belt. Then I stood the unit back upright and put the front cover on, replaced the door safety switch, removing the tape holding the lid and then cloed the lid. Of course I put the dryer back in place, leveled it, and it now runs like brand new. My thanks to every one else who gave me hints that saved be about $450!

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

Open the top of the dryer, thermostat can be plainly seen. this one was obviously fried, made it easy to determine cause of problem. remove old thermostat, pins pull off posts, using socket take off nuts (hang on to the nuts), put the new on. Fixed.

This is the second time that this has happened with my dryer. The first time I replaced the thermostat and fuse, and it worked for a few years. This time I replaced the element and thermostat at first. Still nothing, then got the fuse; and walla just like new. Of course I lost a screw somewhere down at the bottom of the dryer, so there is only one holding the thermostat in place. Also I took off the front and cleaned out the lint traps; both times it was loaded with crap. Probably why it stopped in the first place.

Had a problem holding drum in place and putting front back on. Got it together and drum wouldn't turn. Had to tear it a part again and belt had turned.

Unplug - use screwdriver to release top latches.
Raise top to more than 90 degrees - hard on hands or head if it falls. Remove wires from door swithch and remove front panel screws, lift off front cover. Remove screws from front paned of blower housing. Remove snap ring - shaft clamp already loose, remove old blower whee and install new one. Use DEEP(spark plug) socket tap new wheel onto shaft, replace clamp and snapring and reinstall panel on housing, put front panel back-install door switch wires before screws, replace top, plug in and test run.(note 1st word correction)

I loosened the belt removed the drum, removed the push nut and cracked pulley and replaced both,old push nut was a little stubborn but finally got it off.