DLEX3570W LG Dryer - Instructions

Followed video provided on site

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

Watched a repair video. Very easy to replace, about an hour to repair.

Removed the two screws holding the dryer door strike/locker assembly in place, removed the old and put the new in its place and replaced the screws.

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any suggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Found one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

Unscrew and replace locker hook and assembly, replace screws. That completes door locking assembly repair. To replace the rollers and safety switch assembly, remove back top and front of dryer. Detach and remove control panel and set aside. Remove blower tube at bottom of drum and set all parts and screws aside. Detach all necessary parts and depress belt idler pully underneath drum and remove belt. Remove drum and unbolt rollers on the front panel and also on back of dryer. Remove triangular washer and be sure not to damage it. Check axles for damage, and replace new rollers onto axles. Replace all washers and triangular washer and bolt back onto dryer tightly. Be sure to check that all rollers are spinning freely and adjust bolt tightness accordingly. At some point replace dryer door safety switch by pushing it in from the outside. That completes the safety switch repair. Now once all rollers are replaced, reinstall drum and depress idler pully and reinstall the belt untiltension is restored. Reassemble all parts and plug all wiring back in to proper places. Screw everything back together, plug in dryer and start a cycle to confirm repair was effective. This is not a complete guide on the repair, just a basic idea of how I did it. I Googled videos on how it is done and that was of great help. The repair is actually pretty easy but is much easier with two people. There are some other steps but they should be obvious along the way. My dryer runs almost better than new and the repair was pretty easy and straight forward. It is most definitely a repair you can do yourself. Hope this helps you out.

R&R new lint filter.Old filter appears to have been made improperly and the out frame was warped raising the cormer that kept catching the clothes.

with expert precision

Really easy to do! Unscrewed 4 screws, pulled flap on bottom of inside guide out. Then gently shake assembly to loosen from dryer and pull up and out! Then based on the assembly can replace front or back or both. They snap together! Put assembly replacement back in and close flap and secure in place with the four screws.