DLE5977B (ABPEEUS) LG Dryer - Instructions

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

Could not fix original part. Ordered new lint screen and place it the dryer. No tools needed.

First, I set my laptop up in the laundry room, and went onto Youtube, searched LG dryer repair sensor install. then went step by step, pausing the video and starting it as I went. Then I Plugged it in and it worked. For $50 and some time I was able to do it, the prices from partselect are great and the turn around on shipping was super fast. Thank you Partselect. Kevin

You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as these were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.

Simply removed the old filter and put in the new one. I was impressed with the sales person when I ordered the filter by phone. The online site didn't have a photo of it - just a description and price. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct item--she was very friendly. And the price was reasonable.

My lg electric dryer would not heat up. I went on line and found that the thermostats (there are two) could cause this problem. I used my dvm to ohm out the thermostats and found that the high heat thermostat was open. I replaced this thermostat and the dryer ran for a little while and then quit heating. When I checked the high heat thermostat again I found it to be open again. I then ordered and replaced both thermostats and the dryer has been working well since. The hardest part about this repair was the job of taking the dryer drum out to access the thermostats. I did however get good at doing this.

Seemed to be shutting off on the safety thermostat so I replaced them all. Works.

Removed the heating element, tested it, purchased a new element and installed.

After replacing the wires and the heat thermostat I realze that I needed to replace the thermostat ntc and the thermostat to blower located under door was burnt during fire. I removed front panel,front facing and tumbler to reach thermostat inter wall. It was easy after fixing to other area prior. I thought it was very easy and didn't cosume much time. I'm a women and it was easy to fix.

I accessed the thermostats by removing the exhaust pipe and a plate where the exhaust can be ported on the side as an alternative. You need to get two hands inside to work. I struggled a bit before I noticed the removable access plate on theside. Took about 40 mins to get all three thermostats replaced. not too bad, but it is a tight working space.

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

I first took the top off, then the front control panel, unplugged the wires from panel (very easy), took the front panel off, the rum comes out very easy, be sure to look at the way the belt goes back on the pulley. I didn't and it took me a while to figure it out. All goes back together very easy.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Found one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.