RN1329CD1P (ASSEELC) LG Dryer - Instructions

The installation of the gas orifice was actually simple. Unscrew the old orifice and screw in the correct orifice. Tricky part of the process was accessing the area of the gas valve.

After trying duct tape to fix the tear, I decided to see if I could just order a new one. Part Select was the first company I found listed, so I ordered one. It was not expensive and it was delivered very quickly! It works so well s as me I’m a very happy customer!

Slide out old filter then slide in the new one.

Removed the two screws holding the dryer door strike/locker assembly in place, removed the old and put the new in its place and replaced the screws.

Despite the young age of this dryer, and failure of all the other trials to fix the problem, I figured maybe the igniter is the problem. Ordered one. Followed a U tube video to take the unit apart. Noticed immediately that there was lots of lint pretty much everywhere inside the cabinet. Come to find that the blower and the vent had never been connected, with about two inches gap. So, some of the exhaust was going out the vent hose, but lots was not. In fact, lint had coated the propane jet and the air mixer assembly. Replacing the igniter was not particularly difficult, once the dryer was in lots of pieces. I did not test the igniter before replacing it. I did connect the vent outlet to the blower and secured it. End result was a perfectly functioning unit and a happy wife. I don't recall reading about this as a possible cause of propane odor and failure of the unit to heat up.

Slide out the old lint catcher, and slid in the new one, not that hard.

Opened front of dryer - removed drum - replace all 4 rollers (2 had bad shafts) - replace drum with new belt - reassembled

Followed video provided on site

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any suggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson

Removed old lint filter inserted a new one.

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as these were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.