DLGX3701W (ABWEEUS) LG Dryer - Instructions

FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.

Opened front of dryer - removed drum - replace all 4 rollers (2 had bad shafts) - replace drum with new belt - reassembled

Despite the young age of this dryer, and failure of all the other trials to fix the problem, I figured maybe the igniter is the problem. Ordered one. Followed a U tube video to take the unit apart. Noticed immediately that there was lots of lint pretty much everywhere inside the cabinet. Come to find that the blower and the vent had never been connected, with about two inches gap. So, some of the exhaust was going out the vent hose, but lots was not. In fact, lint had coated the propane jet and the air mixer assembly. Replacing the igniter was not particularly difficult, once the dryer was in lots of pieces. I did not test the igniter before replacing it. I did connect the vent outlet to the blower and secured it. End result was a perfectly functioning unit and a happy wife. I don't recall reading about this as a possible cause of propane odor and failure of the unit to heat up.

Removed the two screws holding the dryer door strike/locker assembly in place, removed the old and put the new in its place and replaced the screws.

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any suggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as these were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.

It only took about 5 minutes to fix the problem. Took out two screws, removed old part, put the new one on and replaced the screws. Works great now!

Removed Top, then front and drum. Parts easy to access once drum is out. Recommend reading up on drum replacement. Would appear that all repairs will require taking it out.

Pull out dryer and unplug 220v. With phillips screwdriver, remove 3 screws from back of top and slide top panel back approx 2 inches and remove. Unplug 4 wire sets from rear of control panel. Remove 2 screws from back of control panel, carefully pull top edge and remove control panel. Remove 4 screws from top of front panel, as well as bottom 2 screws from inside dryer door. Disconnect door light wire near 10 o'clock. Pull top of front panel forward and lift off of tabs. Disconnect filter sensor wire under panel on the right. Remove 2 screws from each side of inner front panel and lift until tabs disengaged from side panels. Pull out bottom edge, carefully disengage inner front panel from drum and remove it. Try to turn roller wheels that are on the rear of the inner front panel. The wheel can get lint inside the wheel/axle and freeze. If one or both is stuck and won't turn easily, use a couple small flathead screwdrivers to carefully remove the plastic triangle retainer off of the roller assembly of the wheel that is stuck. You do not need to unbolt the axle from the panel. Wipe off the axle and inside of wheel with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If the wheel has a flat spot from being rubbed by the drum, you will need to replace it as I did or it will make a thumping sound after cleaned and put back together. Do NOT grease or oil the wheel/axle. This will lead to more lint collection and clogging/freezing. Reverse to put back together.

Removed the exhaust duct screw and removed the duct. Hardest part of the repair was reaching in one-handed to remove the screws for the parts. Make sure that the screwdriver is magnetic. Changed parts and dryer working better than it has in months.

Unplugged dryer. Removed front panel. removed nut holding old igniter. Unplugged old igniter, plugged in new igniter, and mounted new igniter with screw using nut driver.

After replacing the wires and the heat thermostat I realze that I needed to replace the thermostat ntc and the thermostat to blower located under door was burnt during fire. I removed front panel,front facing and tumbler to reach thermostat inter wall. It was easy after fixing to other area prior. I thought it was very easy and didn't cosume much time. I'm a women and it was easy to fix.