DLE0442W ((ABWEEUS)) LG Dryer - Instructions

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

Seemed to be shutting off on the safety thermostat so I replaced them all. Works.

Removed the heating element, tested it, purchased a new element and installed.

After replacing the wires and the heat thermostat I realze that I needed to replace the thermostat ntc and the thermostat to blower located under door was burnt during fire. I removed front panel,front facing and tumbler to reach thermostat inter wall. It was easy after fixing to other area prior. I thought it was very easy and didn't cosume much time. I'm a women and it was easy to fix.

I accessed the thermostats by removing the exhaust pipe and a plate where the exhaust can be ported on the side as an alternative. You need to get two hands inside to work. I struggled a bit before I noticed the removable access plate on theside. Took about 40 mins to get all three thermostats replaced. not too bad, but it is a tight working space.

I first took the top off, then the front control panel, unplugged the wires from panel (very easy), took the front panel off, the rum comes out very easy, be sure to look at the way the belt goes back on the pulley. I didn't and it took me a while to figure it out. All goes back together very easy.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Found one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

First the delivery time was incredible, I ordered the part at 2pm on Mnday and recieved the drum Tuesday afternoon. I'm not sure how this was accomplished as I can't even mail a letter across town and receive the next day. Reoved front of dryer removed old drum and slid in new drum. only difficulty was the wiring disconnect on the control board, didn't want to come off. took 5 minutes to work loose.

Unscrew and replace locker hook and assembly, replace screws. That completes door locking assembly repair. To replace the rollers and safety switch assembly, remove back top and front of dryer. Detach and remove control panel and set aside. Remove blower tube at bottom of drum and set all parts and screws aside. Detach all necessary parts and depress belt idler pully underneath drum and remove belt. Remove drum and unbolt rollers on the front panel and also on back of dryer. Remove triangular washer and be sure not to damage it. Check axles for damage, and replace new rollers onto axles. Replace all washers and triangular washer and bolt back onto dryer tightly. Be sure to check that all rollers are spinning freely and adjust bolt tightness accordingly. At some point replace dryer door safety switch by pushing it in from the outside. That completes the safety switch repair. Now once all rollers are replaced, reinstall drum and depress idler pully and reinstall the belt untiltension is restored. Reassemble all parts and plug all wiring back in to proper places. Screw everything back together, plug in dryer and start a cycle to confirm repair was effective. This is not a complete guide on the repair, just a basic idea of how I did it. I Googled videos on how it is done and that was of great help. The repair is actually pretty easy but is much easier with two people. There are some other steps but they should be obvious along the way. My dryer runs almost better than new and the repair was pretty easy and straight forward. It is most definitely a repair you can do yourself. Hope this helps you out.

Unscrewed the dryer latch on the dryer (not the piece on the dryer door) and screwed in the new piece! Bam, done and done. The ordering process was a snap, very friendly on the phone. She even emailed me a picture of the part before I ordered to make sure it was the right one, and was so patient with me, while my kids were sort of loud in the background. Thanks PartSelect.com, your part is quality and employee rocks.

Followed instruction obtained from parts select. removed top. removed wires removed control panel removed front of dryer pulled out drum assemble changed rollers installed new drum reinstalled front of dryer installed controll panel hooked up wires installed top

The repair was not that difficult but one thing led to another(a small plastic part rolled under the dryer and then the plastic vent pipe broke from age when we pulled the dryer out to find it) and we discovered that the biggest problem was that the pesky ground squirrels in our area had taken up residence in our dryer vent. We found a dead one that had come all the way into the dryer along with the acorn shells it had been eating. The vent itself was almost totally clogged with lint. The flap on the outside was stuck open allowing the ground squirrels to come in and find a nice warm, soft place in which to live. Now the dryer works like a charm but if we hadn't decided to change the gasket we would still be complaining about how long it takes to dry a load of clothes.

Pull out dryer and unplug 220v. With phillips screwdriver, remove 3 screws from back of top and slide top panel back approx 2 inches and remove. Unplug 4 wire sets from rear of control panel. Remove 2 screws from back of control panel, carefully pull top edge and remove control panel. Remove 4 screws from top of front panel, as well as bottom 2 screws from inside dryer door. Disconnect door light wire near 10 o'clock. Pull top of front panel forward and lift off of tabs. Disconnect filter sensor wire under panel on the right. Remove 2 screws from each side of inner front panel and lift until tabs disengaged from side panels. Pull out bottom edge, carefully disengage inner front panel from drum and remove it. Try to turn roller wheels that are on the rear of the inner front panel. The wheel can get lint inside the wheel/axle and freeze. If one or both is stuck and won't turn easily, use a couple small flathead screwdrivers to carefully remove the plastic triangle retainer off of the roller assembly of the wheel that is stuck. You do not need to unbolt the axle from the panel. Wipe off the axle and inside of wheel with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If the wheel has a flat spot from being rubbed by the drum, you will need to replace it as I did or it will make a thumping sound after cleaned and put back together. Do NOT grease or oil the wheel/axle. This will lead to more lint collection and clogging/freezing. Reverse to put back together.

Removed the exhaust duct screw and removed the duct. Hardest part of the repair was reaching in one-handed to remove the screws for the parts. Make sure that the screwdriver is magnetic. Changed parts and dryer working better than it has in months.