GD1329LEU LG Dryer - Instructions

I actually went to mr fix it on u tube. Great instruction on how to take dryer apart. First I unplugged the dryer. I found I could reach the heating system by removing the lint tube in the back of the dryer. I put my I phone with the light on inside the back of the dryer and tested the connections to see if all were working. The thermal fuse was not working. I removed the two wires , red on top and white on the bottom. Then used a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two mounting screws and removed the fuse. I then used a vacuum to clear any lint from the back of the dryer and inside the dryer. This took me about an hour and a half. I did it this way because I did not want to disassemble the entire dryer to get to the components. I received the fuse in 3 days and tested it. It was fine. I then put it in the dryer screwed it in place, connected the wires. Replaced the lint tube. This took about 10 minutes. Dryer is running great.

I unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I had room to work on it.
Pulled the top cover off (slides back).
Took the door off
Took the front adjustable feet on the bottom off
Unscrewed all of the face screws on the front of the dryer
Took the two screws off of the back of the control panel holding the control panel to the metal frame.
Gently pulled on the control panel to reveal 4 screws under the control panel to be able to take the front cover off.
Pulled the front cover off (the dryer door front cover).
Pulled the dryer vent cover off (two screws).
I could now see the heating element with sensor/fuse (right side).
Did a continuity test (beep) on all visable sensors/fuses on the heating element. No beep on the thermal fuse (used website diagram to locate parts to test and replacement part numbers).
Got the part after about a week, tested the parted (it beeped), replaced with new part and put dryer back together, plugged in and the dryer heated. Problem solved.

1. Had to find out what was causing the problem by eliminating each part one by one using a multimeter. I got a video link from parts select on how to do this.

2. Then got another video link sent to me by parts select on how to take my dryer a part and replace the part.

3. Followed it step by step and it worked really well.

4. The process was great except shipping was excessively high for such a small part.

I'm not for reading instructions. So I just dove right in and took the dryer apart to get down to the motor. I gave the dryer a thorough cleaning and replaced the 3 parts I ordered from the online recommendation. Wish I would have ordered 2 sensors and the 2 thermostats that are near the burner. Just so replace beings I was in there. Replacing the parts was easy, found them just by looking for matches to the new parts. Reassembled the dryer, dont think I put a single screw back where I got it lol. And still haven't put the top lid back on due to difficulty. Not sure if I even needed any parts, found a nest in my outside vent completely plugging it. But after a good cleaning and replacing the parts the dryer dries the best it has since we've owned it. The dryer came with our house which we bought 3 years ago and it was 2 years old when we purchased the house, so it is now 5 years old.

Replaced thermal fuse

After replacing the locker assembly (female) on the machine, The door strike(male) was hitting well below the locker. I realized that the screws holding the door hinge were loose. Tightening them brought the strike up far enough to engage the locker, although it still hits a bit low. That might have been the real problem, not the latch, so check the hinge before you order the latch parts.

order start button and was sent thermal, reordered and rep sent me a button that was not for my machine even though she had model no.,called third time and was told I had to order new control panel but they were not being manufactured any more.so it is not fixed

Followed YouTube video repair process. The only problem is that the door hinge has plastic bushings attached. A couple broke and the parts listing does not show the bushings, nor does the hinge come with them. The door is a bit loose without them. Nonetheless, the repair did the job for now.

Entered dryer from rear exhaust port. Removed 2 screws and 2 clip on wires. A little awkward of process but superior method over disassembly of drum and main parts.

With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.

Removed the top, the control panel and the door. The heater assembly came out thru the front, without having to remove the drum. Easy replacement

Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad.
The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.

Exchange

Followed the instruction on video.was great after three parts now is OK .we have heat.still cheaper than having it service.

Repair was easy, but the part does not come with directions. It is pretty self explanatory if you are used to taking things apart and fixing them. Otherwise there are YouTube videos you can pull up. Dryer runs like it is new again though and it was way cheaper than buying a new dryer.